Chanel A/W 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

In Lagerfeld Confidential, the 2007 Rodolphe Marconi-directed documentary exploring the mesmeric world of Karl Lagerfeld – the famed fashion designer, who joined the house of Chanel in 1982 – reveals that at times, entire collections and their accompanying show sets come together in his dreams.

在“拉格菲尔德机密”(Lagerfeld Confidential)中，2007年由鲁道夫·马可尼导演的纪录片“探索卡尔·拉格菲尔德(Karl Lagerfeld)迷人的世界”(Karl Lagerfeld)-著名的时装设计师，1982年加入香奈儿(Chanel)-揭示出，有时，整个系列和它们的伴奏集在他

It’s serendipitous that those lucky enough to attend a Chanel show under Lagerfeld’s tenure also noted a suspension of reality. Before each show, guests mused on what the interplanetary, continent-spanning and infinitely evolving imagination of the German couturier had in store. In recent seasons, the maison’s enormous showspace at the Grand Palais in Paris, has been transformed into the Gorges du Verdon, complete with cliffs and flowing waterfalls, a space station with an cylinder-firing Chanel rocket and autumnal woodland populated with a blanket of burnt orange leaves and towering oak trees.

幸运的是，那些有幸参加拉格菲尔德任期内的香奈儿秀的人也注意到了现实的暂停。在每一场演出之前，来宾们都会思考德国时装设计师的星际、跨越大陆和无限进化的想象力。最近几季，这座位于巴黎大万国宫(Grand Palais)的巨大展厅，被改造成了凡尔登三峡(Gorgedu Verdon)，这里有悬崖和瀑布，还有一个空间站，里面有一根圆柱形的香奈儿(Chanel)火箭，还有一片秋天的林地，里面长满了烧焦的橙叶和高大的橡树。

Chanel A/W 2019

香奈儿A/W2019

As guests entered the show space for Chanel’s A/W 2019 show – the final designed by Karl Lagerfeld and his successor Virginie Viard, before Lagerfeld’s death at the age of 85 last month – they were greeted with a picturesque alpine scene. Powdery snow lined the ground, and pine trees, lamp posts and snow-topped chalets populated the space. It was amidst this winter wonderland, with log cabins’ chimneys emitting plumes of smokes and Chanel branded skis stuck in the ground, that models walked.

当客人进入香奈儿2019年A/W展览的展厅时-这是卡尔·拉格菲尔德和他的继任者维吉尼·维亚德(Virginie Viard)设计的决赛，拉格菲尔德于上月去世，享年85岁-他们迎来了风景如画的高山风光。地面上铺满了白雪，松树、灯柱和白雪覆盖的小木屋占据了整个空间。就在这个冬天的仙境里，木屋的烟囱里冒着烟，香奈儿品牌的雪橇卡在地上，模特们走着。

The start of the show was marked by the romantic tinkle of wind chimes and the gentle patter of glockenspiels. A moving minute silence for the late couturier, followed, then an audio recording of Lagerfeld himself, discussing the creative evolution of Chanel, and touching on the uncertainty he met when initially taking the reigns of the brand. His final closing statement ‘Oh, it’s like walking through a painting,’ – a description the Queen Mother offered about his vision for Chanel, spoke a thousand words. It poignantly summed up the creative brushstrokes and colourful landscapes that defined his runway shows.

演出的开始以风铃的浪漫叮当声和钟声的轻柔拍打为标志。为这位已故的时装设计师默哀了一分钟，然后是拉格菲尔德本人的录音，讨论了香奈儿的创意演变，并触及了他在最初掌控品牌时遇到的不确定性。他最后的结束语“哦，就像在画中穿行”-这位女王母亲描述了他对香奈儿(Chanel)的愿景，说出了千言万语。它尖锐地总结了他的时装秀的创作笔触和五彩缤纷的风景画。

Models exited from the door of a chalet at the head of the catwalk, clad in elegant alpine ensembles, like chunky Nordic knits, bouclé overcoats, swishy houndstooth skirts and cosy magenta capes. They stood assembled at the helm of the runway, before meandering through the blanket of snow on the catwalk.

模特们从一座小木屋的门口出来，他们穿着优雅的阿尔卑斯山脉服装，比如厚实的北欧针织衫、布克莱大衣、丰满的低腰裙和舒适的洋红色披风。他们站在跑道的掌舵上，然后蜿蜒地穿过T台上的厚厚的积雪。

Chanel A/W 2019

香奈儿A/W2019

The final series of evening looks, which included snow queen-worthy puffball skirts and chic trouser suits were imagined in an icy white colour palette. Chanel ambassador Penelope Cruz took a turn on the runway, carrying a single white rose. At the show’s finale, models walked with linked arms in groups down the runway, touchingly wiping tears from their eyes, to David Bowie’s Heroes, the song which also marked the finale of the Fendi show last month, where Lagerfeld was also creative director.

最后一系列的晚装，其中包括雪皇后，值得吹毛求疵的裙子和别致的裤子西服被想象在一个冰冷的白色调色板。香奈儿大使佩内洛普·克鲁兹在跑道上转弯，手里拿着一朵白玫瑰。在该剧的决赛中，模特们挽着胳膊走在跑道上，感人地擦着眼泪，来到大卫·鲍伊(David Bowie)的“英雄”(Heroes)，这首歌也标志着上个月芬迪秀(Fendi Show)的收场，拉格菲尔德也是该剧的创意总监。

Lagerfeld was adamant that fashion was about looking forward. ‘No congratulations. It’s already history, what counts is the next collection,’ he told then Chanel president Arie Kopelman in 1985. An illustration designed by Lagerfeld, placed on the seats of guests echoed this sentiment. It featured a sketch of Coco Chanel and Lagerfeld accentuated with the words, ‘The beat goes on.’ §

拉格菲尔德坚持认为时尚就是向前看。“不，恭喜你。这已经是历史了，重要的是下一个收藏，‘他在1985年告诉香奈儿当时的总裁ArieKopelman。拉格菲尔德设计的一幅插图，放在客人的座位上，反映了这种情绪。它以可可·香奈儿和拉格菲尔德的素描为特色，并强调了“节拍继续”一词。

香奈儿A/W 2019年。摄影：杰森劳埃德-埃文斯香奈儿A/W 2019年。摄影：杰森·劳埃德·埃文斯

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