Zurich brand Freitags sustainable staying power 苏黎世品牌Freitag可持续保持力

2019-08-07 16:12
Upcycled materials are essential to Freitag’s aesthetic
When Markus and Daniel Freitag started their eponymous bag brand back in 1993, they were unknowing pioneers of a movement that would become seminal to the fashion industry over two decades later. Recycling used materials; adopting a circular economy; transparent production processes, these were all tenets the duo adopted when launching their brand from a shared flat in central Zurich. Here, they started turning multi-coloured truck tarpaulins and other pieces of scrap into waterproof messenger bags. Now the label sells around 550,000 items per year internationally, including a wide selection of bags and accessories as well as a clothing line, while still being based in the Swiss city.

1993年,马库斯(Markus)和丹尼尔·弗赖塔格(DanielFreitag)创立了他们同名的手袋品牌,当时他们是一场运动的不知名先驱,这场运动将在20多年后成为时回收二手材料;采用循环经济;透明的生产流程,这些都是两人在苏黎世中部共享公寓推出品牌时采用的原则。在这里,他们开始把各种颜色的卡车帆布和其他废料变成防水送信袋。如今,该品牌每年在国际上销售约55万件商品,其中包括各式各样的袋子和配件,以及一条服装系列,同时仍设在瑞士这个城市。
As young professionals, the two brothers felt a need for a practical and resistant bag that could accompany them on their cycling journeys. Thanks to their background in graphic design, they assembled styles from truck tarps with a simple and straightforward design. As each piece of tarp is different, and has a unique patina as a result of its first life on the road, each bag is an individual item sporting its own fascinating roughness.

作为年轻的专业人士,这对兄弟俩觉得需要一个实用的、有抵抗力的袋子来陪伴他们骑自行车旅行。由于他们的背景在平面设计,他们组装风格的卡车油布与一个简单和简单的设计。由于每一块油布是不同的,并有一个独特的帕蒂纳,因为它的第一个生命在道路上,每个袋子是一个单独的项目,具有自己迷人的粗糙。
‘This beauty of imperfection in our products is not really Swiss, but on the other hand we create long lasting, detail-focused quality bags,’ explains Daniel Freitag. ‘With another image of Switzerland, we’re helping to adjust the image of Swiss design today. Environmentally friendly design wasn’t at the forefront of our brand at the beginning, but came later as a way to understand the concept of the brand fully.’

丹尼尔·弗雷塔格解释说:“我们产品的这种不完美之处并不是真正的瑞士产品,但另一方面,我们创造了持久的、注重细节的高质量包。”随着瑞士的另一个形象,我们正在帮助调整瑞士的形象设计今天。环境友好型设计在一开始并不是我们品牌的最前沿,而是后来成为全面理解品牌概念的一种方式。
Eight years ago, Freitag moved from its original central location to Zurich-Oerlikon, an industrial district in the North of the city. This was a chance for Freitag to start afresh and tailor their F-Factory NŒRD to their environmental ethos. Today, truck tarps are bought from European trucking companies and directed straight into the factory where they are washed, cut and packaged before being sold online, or through its 24 brick-and-mortar stores and numerous worldwide distributors.

八年前,弗雷塔格从原来的中心位置迁往苏黎世-奥利肯,一个位于城市北部的工业区。这是一个机会,弗雷塔格重新开始,并使他们的F工厂NŒ路,以适应他们的环境精神。如今,卡车防水布是从欧洲卡车公司购买的,直接进入工厂,在那里清洗、切割和包装后才能在线销售,或通过其24家实体店和众多全球分销商销售。
Almost everything inside NŒRD is recycled. From collecting rainwater on the building’s rooftop for the tarps’ washing process, to taking half its heat from waste power plants and using hydro and solar electricity, the factory takes care of the environment by respectfully reusing its resources. In only one single year, Freitag saves four million litres of rainwater, enough to cover half of the usage for the tarps’ washing process. The return on investment of this green laundry system however will only kick in in 2026. But as with everything Freitag, longevity is key.

NŒ路内的几乎所有东西都是回收的。从在建筑物屋顶收集雨水进行防水布清洗,再到从废弃发电厂取暖一半,再到使用水电和太阳能,工厂通过尊重资源的再利用来保护环境。仅仅一年,Freitag就节省了400万升雨水,足以满足油布清洗过程一半的使用量。然而,这种绿色洗衣系统的投资回报只会在2026年生效。但就像所有的东西一样,长寿是关键。
Freitag flagship store in Zurich Hardbrücke. Photography: Roland Taennler

苏黎世Hardbrücke的Freitag旗舰店。摄影:罗兰·泰纳
With over 140 employees working in a circular economy-focused factory, the Freitag brothers felt the urge to design sustainable workwear that could be durable yet design-worthy. Because of the lack of quality natural fabrics available on the market, they decided to make their own, once again from scratch. In 2014, after touring around Europe to find the most sustainably grown materials and production partners located no further than 2,500km from Zurich, they were able to develop – with the help of an external textile team – their own F-abric made of a tough base of hemp and flax added with Modal, a beechwood viscose. As the fabric is 100 per cent natural and details such as linings, labels and even threads are biodegradable, the idea is that, when reaching its end of life, the garment can be completely composted. Only the metal button of the trousers has to be unscrewed. It can act as an heirloom for future use.

在一家以循环经济为中心的工厂里工作的员工超过140人,弗雷塔格兄弟感到迫切需要设计可持续的工作服,这样的工作服既耐用又有设计价值。由于市场上缺乏优质的天然面料,他们决定自己生产,再一次从头开始。2014年,他们在欧洲各地巡回演出,寻找距离苏黎世不到2500公里的最可持续生长的材料和生产合作伙伴。在外部纺织团队的帮助下,他们得以开发出自己的F-Abric,该纤维是用麻类和亚麻制成的,加上一种山毛榉木粘胶剂Modal。由于织物是百分之百自然的,细节,如衬里,标签,甚至是线是可生物降解的,想法是,当它的寿命结束时,服装可以完全堆肥。只有裤子的金属扣子必须拧开。它可以作为传家宝,供将来使用。
‘It’s not that we’rere trying to save the world. We’re at an educational moment and think a storytelling aspect is needed to understand the idea of circular fashion,’ says Daniel Freitag. ‘Only five years ago, sustainability wasn’t a topic and now it’s huge. People are understanding that it’s worth to buy less but better.’ Freitag’s ‘pret-a-composter’ line currently includes shirts, trousers, overalls and aprons for men and women.

这并不是说我们在试图拯救世界。丹尼尔·弗雷塔格(DanielFreitag)说:“我们正处在一个教育的时刻,需要一个讲故事的方面来理解循环时尚的概念。”“就在五年前,可持续性还不是一个话题,现在它已经是一个巨大的话题了。”人们正在认识到,买得少但买得好是值得的。弗雷塔格的“烤面包”系列目前包括男女衬衫、裤子、工作服和围裙。
This year, Freitag has pushed the unique aspect of its bags one step further. Since the beginning of the month, customers can visit the newly converted Sweat-Yourself-Shop, located a short bike ride away from the renowned Freitag flagship tower made of stacked containers, and make their own personalised tarp shopper. ‘We’re quite excited to have this customisation experience added to our offer.’ says Daniel Freitag. ‘Now we have a space where you can really feel the uniqueness, choose the colours and see where the production takes place right away’. The clear, industrial space of the store acts as a mini factory where the manufacturing process is revealed in front of visitor’s eyes, who can pick each piece of tarp to their taste and assemble them with the help of the Freitag staff on site.

今年,Freitag进一步推动了其包的独特方面。自月初以来,客户可以参观新转换的汗--------远离著名的Freitag旗舰店,远离著名的Freitag旗舰店,由堆叠的集装箱组成,并制造他们自己的个性化TARP购物者。“我们很高兴有这种定制体验添加到我们的报价中。”现在我们有一个空间,您可以真正感受到独一无二的,选择颜色,看看哪里的生产是正确的。”商店的明显的工业空间充当微型工厂,在那里,制造过程被揭示在访问者的眼睛前面,他们可以从他们的品味中挑选每一块防水布,并在现场的Freitag工作人员的帮助下组装它们。
After 25 years in the business and an expanding international market, the Freitag brothers have been able to remain independent and build a brand based on a conscious lifestyle and strong environmental values. ‘We grew organically, so we were able to reinvest in our own business which I think is a beautiful story because you still own your ideas.’ explains Daniel Freitag. And the biggest challenge? ‘Producing in one of the most expensive cities in the world which explains the price of our products, and having to work with your brother!’ laughs his older sibling. §

在商业和扩大的国际市场25年后,FreitagBrothers能够保持独立,并以有意识的生活方式和强烈的环境价值观为基础构建一个品牌。“我们得到了有机的发展,所以我们能够在自己的业务中再投资,我认为这是一个美丽的故事,因为你仍然拥有自己的想法。”丹尼尔Freitag解释道。最大的挑战是:“在世界上最昂贵的城市之一生产,这说明了我们的产品的价格,并且必须与你的兄弟合作!”他的哥哥们笑着。?
Freitag出汗-你自己商店。摄影:罗兰·泰恩勒FreitagF汗-你自己购物。摄影:罗兰·泰恩勒

                            

                            

                    

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