Edward Crutchley won both the International Woolmark Prize 2019 for Menswear and Innovation.

Good clothes mirror the times. When this year’s International Woolmark Prize finalists gathered in London, their jackets, shirts, jumpers and coats had a clear conscience. Each of the 12 designers zoomed in on sustainability, identity and kindness. Triumphant brands were Edward Crutchley, who scooped both the Menswear and Innovation prizes, and Colovos who won the Womenswear category, the New York-based label which launched in 2016.

好衣服能反映时代。当今年的国际伍马克奖决赛选手聚集在伦敦时，他们的夹克、衬衫、毛衣和外套都是问心无愧的。12位设计师中的每一位都放大了可持续性、认同感和善意。获胜的品牌有爱德华·克鲁茨利(Edward Crutchley)，他获得了男装奖和创新奖，以及获得2016年推出的纽约品牌“女装”类别的科沃斯(Colvos)。

Edward Crutchley celebrated the role that textiles play as cultural signposts. His collection featured prints inspired by Malinese mud-cloth and suits made from Saudi Arabian fabric. Breton lacework patterns were engineered into fine wool cardigan coats, whilst knitwear was dyed by hand at the Kyoto Guild of Shibori Masters, which Crutchley said gave off ‘a grungy Australian surf vibe.’

爱德华·克鲁茨利(EdwardCrutchley)赞扬了纺织品作为文化标志的作用。他的收藏特色是灵感来自马里泥布和西服的灵感来自沙特阿拉伯的织物。布列塔尼花边图案被设计成细羊毛衫，而针织服装则是在京都Shibori大师协会(KyotoGuild Of Shibori Master)上手工染色的。克鲁茨利说，这是一种“肮脏的澳大利亚海浪”。

It was a smorgasbord of skill, produced in collaboration with artisanal producers from around the world. The total prize money of AU$300,000 for both gongs means that Crutchley can grow his business, but he isn’t in any rush. ‘I want to take time to process this. The recognition means everything to me. I want this prize to mean something substantial for the long term. When I worked on the collection I took away the restrictions I normally place on myself, thinking about what will sell and what people might want from me and just did exactly what I wanted,’ he said.

它是一个与来自世界各地的个体生产者协作生产的技术领域。这两个公家的奖金总额为300,000美元，这都意味着Crutchley可以发展他的业务，但他并没有任何匆忙。“我想花时间来处理这件事。我想花时间来处理这件事。我希望这个奖金意味着长期的东西。当我在收藏上工作的时候，我就拿走了我通常在自己身上的限制。”他说，“考虑将出售什么，以及人们可能想从我身上得到什么，而恰恰正是我想要的。”

CMMN, finalists in the Woolmark Prize 2019

CMMN，2019年伍尔马克奖决赛选手

Crutchley’s request for slowness chimed with fellow finalists CMMN. Concerned with the over-production rife across the industry, the duo behind the label have previously reworked pieces from earlier seasons. Here, they took second-hand Aran jumpers and knitted new pieces to them, relinking and felting them together to create a slouchy hybrid of old and new.

克鲁茨利的慢速要求与其他决赛选手CMMN一致。出于对整个行业过度生产的关注，该品牌背后的二人此前重新加工了早期几季的作品。在这里，他们把二手的阿兰套衫和编织新的件给他们，重新调整和毡他们在一起，创造了一个懒散的混合新旧。

‘There is a lot of focus on sustainability this year,’ Julie Davies at The Woolmark Company observed. ‘Many of the finalists are either working with really old mills or finding totally new ones and looking at working in different ways. There’s a different approach to sourcing too.’ Provenance is something that each of the finalists have been given the opportunity to consider, from yarn development right through to what we might buy in the shops, whilst learning the myriad ways wool can be used. ‘It’s a real eye-opener for the designers when they realise how diverse wool is. It works for all markets, all climates,’ adds Davies.

伍尔马克公司(Woolmark Company)的朱莉·戴维斯(JulieDavies)说，今年人们对可持续性的关注很大。许多入围者要么与真正的老磨坊合作，要么寻找全新的磨坊，并考虑以不同的方式工作。在采购方面也有不同的方法。种源是每个入围者都有机会考虑的东西，从纱线的开发到我们在商店里可能买的东西，同时学习如何使用羊毛。当设计师们意识到羊毛的多样性时，这对他们来说是一个真正的开场白。它适用于所有的市场，所有的气候，“戴维斯补充说。

Colovos, winners of the Woolmark Prize 2019 Womenswear category

2019年获伍尔马克奖女装类优胜者

More and more designers are rationalising their environmental responsibilities: ‘I can’t look at another image of animals caught in plastic without thinking about how we might be participating,’ says Nicole Colovos, one half of husband-and-wife duo Colovos. ‘We have to move it forward.’ They were awarded the Womenswear prize for their studied, elegant collection of navy separates. Launched in New York in 2016 as a sustainable minimal wardrobe, the label is rigorous and unfussy. Here they used innovative finishes that gave wool the look and feel of denim and silk.

越来越多的设计师正在理顺他们对环境的责任：“我不能在不考虑我们如何参与的情况下，再看另一个被塑料包裹的动物的形象，”一对夫妻二人结了一半的尼古拉·科沃斯(Nicole Colvos)说。“我们必须向前推进。”他们被授予女装奖，因为他们的研究，优雅的海军分离收藏。2016年在纽约推出，作为一个可持续的最低限度的衣柜，这个标签是严格和不挑剔的。在这里，他们使用创新的整理，使羊毛的外观和感觉的牛仔和丝绸。

‘I can’t look at another image of animals caught in plastic without thinking about how we might be participating’ – Nicole Colovos

“我不能再看另一张被塑料捕获的动物的照片，而不考虑我们是如何参与的”-妮可·科沃斯

‘When we launched we wanted to do something small and spend more time on less pieces. Reading about climate change in the news, we started to feel we were in this wasteful industry and so we wanted to push what can we do. Just how transparent can the processes be?’ Their prize money will be used to help the brand expand into menswear and support e-commerce. ‘It’s a really big deal for us. We can scale. We can do the things we have been wanting to do with zero waste,’ says Colovos.

当我们推出时，我们想做一些小的事情，花更多的时间在更少的碎片上。在新闻中看到了气候变化的消息，我们开始觉得我们处在一个浪费的行业，所以我们想要推动我们能做些什么。这些过程到底能有多透明？他们的奖金将用于帮助品牌扩展到男装和支持电子商务。这对我们来说是件大事。我们可以扩大规模。我们可以用零浪费来做我们一直想做的事情，“科沃斯说。

Daniel W. Fletcher, Woolmark Prize finalist 2019

丹尼尔·弗莱彻(Daniel W.Fletcher)，伍尔马克奖决赛得主，2019年

The venerated Diana Vreeland once wrote: ‘Fashion is the perfect expression of the economic and social hour. Fashion is never wrong. Fashion is the projection of invention for the time.’ No surprise then that designer Daniel Fletcher has produced a large body of work in response to Brexit and the threat that British mills and many fashion institutions now face, economically and culturally. Here, he riffed on school uniforms and sports kits as a comment on the cuts to arts education, depriving younger people of the stimuli that could produce our future designers.

曾被尊崇的戴安娜·弗里兰曾写道：“时尚是经济和社会时刻的完美表达。时尚是永远不会错的。时尚是对时代的发明的投射。毫不奇怪，设计师丹尼尔·弗莱彻(DanielFletcher)为了应对英国退欧以及英国工厂和许多时尚机构现在经济和文化上面临的威胁，做出了大量的工作。在这里，他嘲笑校服和运动用品，作为对艺术教育削减的评论，剥夺了年轻人可能产生未来设计师的刺激。

This year’s International Woolmark Prize was the catalyst for the new guard to realise other ways of working. ‘In order for us to sustain ourselves we need to be kind to one another and take care of one another,’ finalist Willy Chavarria said. Since launching his label in 2016, he’s been so focused on fighting social injustice, that he’d overlooked environmental issues… that is, until he started working with wool. ‘It’s the purest fibre you can have! I’m now thinking about more environmentally conscious ways of producing, limiting the styles I offer, manufacturing American milled wools in American factories so there is less wastage.’ It’s woke and wearable. The perfect expression of the here and now. §

“今年的国际伍尔马克奖”是新后卫实现其他工作方式的催化剂。“为了让我们保持自己，我们需要彼此友善，互相照顾，”Finalist威利Chavarria说。自从2016年推出他的标签以来，他一直专注于打击社会不公正，他“忽略了环境问题……”也就是说，在他开始与羊毛工作之前，“它是你可以拥有的最纯洁的纤维！我现在正在考虑更环保的生产方式，限制我提供的样式，制造美国工厂的美国磨碎的羊毛，这样就会浪费更少的损耗。”它的觉醒和穿戴。这里和现在的完美表达。?

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