Karl Lagerfeld, as pictured in the October 2009 issue of Wallpaper*, when he was a Guest Editor (W*127)

Karl Lagerfeld has passed away at the age of 85. The legendary fashion designer was born in Hamburg, Germany in 1933. Lagerfeld was known for being at the creative helm of two leading luxury brands – he joined Chanel as creative director in 1983, and had been creative director of Fendi since 1965. A creative tour de force, Lagerfeld was a designer, illustrator, photographer, publisher and collector. He even guest edited an issue of Wallpaper* in 2009 (W*127).

卡尔·拉格菲尔德去世时享年85岁。这位传奇的时装设计师1933年出生于德国汉堡。拉格菲尔德是著名的两大奢侈品品牌的创意掌门人-他于1983年加入香奈儿担任创意总监，自1965年以来一直担任芬迪的创意总监。拉格菲尔德是一个富有创造力的旅行团，曾是一名设计师、插画家、摄影师、出版商和收藏家。他甚至在2009年编辑了一期“壁纸”(W*127)。

Lagerfeld was renowned for his voracious absorption of literature, art and trends and his talent at filtering these influences into covetable ready-to-wear and Haute Couture collections that captured the zeitgest. Chic bouclé tweed suits and miniscule logo bikinis were both features on the Chanel runway, while at Fendi, the house was revitalised with its impeccably crafted ‘Fun Fur’. Lagerfeld’s white ponytail and starck personal colour preference, passion for Diet Coke and love for his cat Choupette also made him a mythologised figure in popular culture, a visage he honed throughout his career, whether toning his body builder physique, wearing a monocle, or opting for a host of silver rings and a pair of oversized sunglasses.

拉格菲尔德以其对文学、艺术和趋势的贪婪吸收以及他在过滤这些影响方面的天赋而闻名于世，并将这些影响转化为捕获了泽特诺孕素的可贪婪的成衣和高级时装系列。在香奈儿的跑道上，别致的Bourlerin粗花呢套装和微型标识比基尼都是特色，而在Fendi，这栋房子是用无可挑剔的精心打造的“有趣的皮草”来振兴的。拉格菲尔德的白马尾和Starck个人的颜色偏好、对饮食可乐的热情和对他的猫Choupette的爱也使他成为受欢迎的文化中的一个神话人物，在他的职业生涯中，无论他的身体健美体魄，还是穿着单鞋，还是选择一个银圈和一双超大的太阳镜，他都在他的职业生涯中得到了极大的重视。

A student at the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, Lagerfeld first rose to prominence in 1954, when one of his designs – a yellow wool coat with a buckled collar, won the Coat category of the inaugural Woolmark Prize. Lagerfeld’s sketch was bought to life by Pierre Balmain, who offered the young designer an assistant position at his maison a year later. In 1959, Lagerfeld left to work for Jean Patou, staying at the house until 1962. After a period working as a successful freelance designer, honing his ability to design for a wide variety of brands and aesthetics, Lagerfeld began working for Gabrielle Aghion at Chloé in 1964. He moved from designing two collections for the ready-to-wear house per season, to designing its entire collections, and producing its first fragrance in 1975.

拉格菲尔德是巴黎时装学院(Cole De La Chambre Syndicale De La Couture Parisienne)的一名学生，1954年他的设计之一-一件带扣领的黄色羊毛外套-首次获得伍尔马克奖(Woolmark Prize)的外衣类别。拉格菲尔德的素描是皮埃尔·巴尔曼买来的，一年后，他为这位年轻的设计师提供了一个助理职位。1959年，拉格菲尔德离开这里为让·帕图工作，一直住到1962年。拉格菲尔德曾是一名成功的自由职业设计师，锻炼了他为各种品牌和美学设计的能力。1964年，拉格菲尔德开始在Chloé为加布里埃尔·阿吉安(Gabrielle Aghion)工作。他从为每季的成衣屋设计了两个系列，到设计了整个系列，并在1975年生产了第一款香水。

German fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld, 1984. Photography: Jurgen Schadeberg/Getty Images

德国时装设计师卡尔·拉格菲尔德，1984年。摄影：Jurgen Schadeberg/Getty图片

In 1965, Lagerfeld began collaborating with Fendi, transforming the Roman family-owned furrier and leather goods house into a major fashion world player. In 2008, he began collaborating with Silvia Venturini, currently the menswear and accessories director of the house, and the granddaughter of Fendi’s founders. The two were renowned for taking a bow together at the head of the runway after every Fendi womenswear show.

1965年，拉格菲尔德开始与芬迪合作，把罗马家族拥有的Furrier和皮货之家改造成一个主要的时尚世界球员。2008年，他开始与SilviaVentura合作，目前是众议院的男装和配件主管，以及Fendi创始人的孙女。在每个Fendi女装秀结束后，这两个人在跑道头领一个蝴蝶结而闻名。

Lagerfeld presented his first Haute Couture collection for Chanel in 1983. The show, presented in the rooms of the famed Rue Cambon atelier, was inspired by Chanel’s silhouettes from the 1920s and 30s, and featured knee-length wool suits, wide lapel jackets, scarab-inspired jewels and ruffled organza eveningwear.

拉格菲尔德于1983年为香奈儿推出了他的第一个豪特时装系列。这场展览在著名的坎本街工作室的房间里上演，灵感来源于香奈儿20世纪20年代和30年代的剪影，展出的是膝长羊毛套装、宽翻领夹克、带有圣甲虫风格的珠宝和有褶皱的风琴晚礼服。

In his long tenure at Chanel, Lagerfeld was renowned for continually reinventing the skirt suits and bouclé tweeds synonymous with the house, imbuing his collections with a kaleidoscopic and humorous range of references. These ranged from surfboards, hockey sticks, or UFO-inspired accessories, to experimentation with Chanel’s interlocking ‘C’ logo, garments inspired by feminist uprisings, the Gorge du Verdon, or airport terminals. ‘I’m lucky that I can put it on paper and people can immediately see it and make the dress without asking too many questions,’ Lagerfeld said of his design process in 2015. ‘I don’t change my mind because before I present an idea I throw 20 into the garbage bin.’

拉格菲尔德在香奈儿(Chanel)工作了很长一段时间，因为他不断地重新设计裙子套装和花花草草，使他的收藏品充满了千变万化和幽默的参考资料，而闻名于香奈儿(Chanel)。这些包括冲浪板，曲棍球棒，或UFO启发的配件，试验香奈儿的连锁‘C’标志，服装灵感来自女权运动，峡谷都Verdon，或机场航站楼。拉格菲尔德在谈到2015年的设计过程时说，我很幸运，我可以把它写在纸上，人们可以立刻看到它，并在不问太多问题的情况下制作它。“我不会改变主意，因为在我提出想法之前，我把20个扔进垃圾箱。”

Lagerfeld gained a reputation for being not just a master designer, but also a spectacular showman. In 1978, the ostentatious wedding party he hosted for Paloma Picasso and Rafael López Sánchez, acted as a precursor to the awe-inspiring runway sets both Fendi and Chanel became renowned for. In 2007, Fendi held a show on the Great Wall of China, and in celebration of the house’s 90th anniversary in 2016, it staged a runway set stretching across the Trevi Fountain in Rome. At Chanel, Lagerfeld transported guests from Cuba to Dubai, Texas to Edinburgh, and erected spectacular and cinematic show sets at the Grand Palais in Paris, resembling casinos, ancient Greece, a space station, and most recently, with a serene leaf-lined forest.

拉格菲尔德不仅是一个主设计师，而且获得了一个引人注目的表演人的声誉。1978年，他为PalomaPicasso和RafaelLopezS.Nchez主办的一个炫耀的婚礼聚会，充当了范文迪和香奈儿都出了名的令人敬畏的跑道的前身。2007年，Fendi在中国长城举行了一场展览，在庆祝2016年的“房屋”90周年之际，它在罗马的Trevi喷泉上上演了一场时装秀。在香奈儿，拉格菲尔德将客人从古巴运往迪拜、德克萨斯到爱丁堡，并在巴黎大皇宫（类似于赌场、古希腊、太空站）和最近在一片平静的叶衬森林里设立了壮观的电影节目。

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Lagerfeld launched his eponymous line in 1984, and collaborated with brands including Hogan, Louis Vuitton, H-M and Vans. He also worked as a costume designer for a variety of productions and films, including 1984‘s Betrayal by Harold Pinter and the English National Ballet’s Apollo in 2009. But it is more than just a fashion legacy he leaves behind. A passionate photographer, Lagerfeld lensed not only Chanel’s advertising campaigns, but also shot a plethora of landscape and architectural images, some of which were captured in the 2007 book Konkret Abstrakt Gesehen. And in recognition of Lagerfeld’s passion for image making, Chanel has partnered with Hyères Photography Festival since 2014. Lagerfeld was also an avid art and furniture collector since the mid 1970s, and sporadically auctioned pieces from his art deco, Memphis, Old Masters and French design collections. He also collaborated with both Orrefors and Cessina.

拉格菲尔德于1984年推出了自己的同名线，并与包括霍根、路易威登、H在内的品牌合作。

Despite his monumental creative legacy, and starring roles in the stratospheric success of two of the most prolific houses in fashion history, Lagerfeld took little interest in his past designs. He preferred, instead, to look resolutely towards the future. And that is the true legacy of Karl Lagerfeld. §

尽管拉格菲尔德留下了不朽的创作遗产，并在时尚史上最多产的两家公司的平流层成功中扮演主角，但他对过去的设计并不感兴趣。相反，他更愿意坚定地展望未来。这才是卡尔·拉格菲尔德的真正遗产。§

卡尔拉格菲尔德，与他的孟菲斯收藏品合照。摄影：让-克劳德·萨奥尔/巴黎比赛通过盖蒂图片卡尔拉格菲尔德，与他的孟菲斯收藏品合影。摄影：让-克劳德·萨奥尔通过盖蒂图片与巴黎比赛

卡尔·拉格菲尔德在他的素描前。摄影：JohnvanHasselt/Corbis通过Getty图片卡尔拉格菲尔德在他的草图前面。摄影：John van Hasselt/Corbis通过Getty图片

卡尔·拉格菲尔德，1954年。摄影：UllsteinBild/UllsteinBild，通过GettyImagesKarlLaGuerfeld，1954。摄影：UllsteinBild/UllsteinBild（通过GettyImages）