Roksanda collaborated with art collective Troika on a colourful A/W 2019 runway set featuring six rainbow projections. Image courtesy of Roksanda

How serendipitous that fashion designer Roksanda Ilinčić and art collective Troika work from studios a stone’s throw away from each other in east London. Both operate in different mediums, but their experimentations in colour, from Roksanda’s wearable studies of tone and saturation, to Troika’s explorations into how human perception can alter form, unite their practices.

时装设计师罗坎达·伊林(Roksanda Ilinčić)和艺术集体三驾马车在东伦敦相距一箭之遥的工作室里工作，这是多么巧啊。两者都在不同的媒介中运作，但它们在色彩方面的实验，从罗克桑达对色调和饱和度的可穿戴性研究，到三驾马车对人类感知如何改变形态的探索，将它们的实践结合起来。

Ilinčić has long found Troika’s studio a source of inspiration. ‘It’s like an amazing laboratory,’ she explains. ‘Full of maquettes and experimental pieces, liquids and acids and unusual tools.’ She even held the launch of her Cutler - Gross sunglasses line there in late 2016, and used it as the location of her Pre-Fall 2018 lookbook.

伊林·čić早就发现三驾马车的工作室是灵感的源泉。“这就像一个神奇的实验室，”她解释道。“马奎特人和实验品、液体、酸和不寻常的工具。”她甚至举行了她的卡特勒的发射。

In a prismatic partnership, Ilinčić invited Troika – co-founded by Conny Freyer, Eva Rucki and Sebastien Noel – to collaborate on the set design of her A/W 2019 catwalk show, which was held yesterday in Central London. The result? An art installation-cum-catwalk, lined with stark white lightboxes, crunchy salt underfoot, and six large photographic foils reflecting kaleidoscopic light onto models and audience members alike.

IlinčIć以棱镜形式合作，邀请由Conny Freyer、伊娃·鲁基和塞巴斯蒂安·诺埃尔共同创立的“三驾马车”在她的A/W 2019 T型台秀的集合设计上进行合作，该展览于昨日在伦敦市中心举行。结果是什么呢？艺术设施

‘We’ve never done a stage set before,’ explains Freyer. ‘It was really interesting for us, because you work to very different parameters when making a piece for a gallery or institution.’ Troika’s ‘Borrowed Light’ – a site-specific artwork installed at the Barbican’s Lightwell, and on view until May this year, inspired the runway set up. The suspended mechanised structure is formed from a 24-metre long slowing moving scroll of photographic slide film, changing colour in an infinite loop, in tones that evoke sunset to sunrise. ‘The use of film refers to optical and visual media, and the idea of using this medium to record images,’ Freyer adds. ‘We’ve reinterpreted its role. The film creates rather than documents reality. Over the course of 12 minutes it produces a variant of graded colour.’

弗里耶解释说：“我们以前从未做过舞台设置。”“这对我们来说真的很有趣，因为在为画廊或机构制作作品时，你的工作参数非常不同。”三驾马车的“借来的光”-一种安装在巴比康灯塔的特定地点的艺术品，直到今年5月才被展出，这启发了跑道的建立。这个悬挂的机械结构是由一个24米长的缓慢移动的摄影幻灯片卷轴形成的，它在无限的循环中改变颜色，色调让人联想起日落到日出。“电影的使用指的是光学和视觉媒体，以及利用这种媒介记录图像的想法，”Freyer补充道。我们已经重新解释了它的角色。这部电影创造而不是记录现实。在12分钟的过程中，它会产生一种渐变颜色。

Roksanda Ilinčić A/W 2019. Photography Jason Lloyd-Evans

Roksanda IlinčIćA/W 2019年。摄影贾森劳埃德埃文斯

‘Borrowed Light is really about blurring different boundaries and exploring how you can perceive colour,’ linčić adds. ‘That’s an idea I’ve been incorporating into my work’. There are threads of commonality between Troika’s runway installation and her A/W 2019 offering too. Ilinčić’s excellent autumn collection abounded in a spectrum of colour, from pinks to yellows, blues to browns, and featured voluminous proportions, ruffles and colour-blocked stripes.

“借用的光线实际上是关于模糊不同的边界，并探讨你如何感知颜色，”林特·艾特补充道，“这是我在工作中融入的一种想法”。三驾马车的跑道安装和她的A/W2019产品也有共性。伊林·伊林特的秋分集色彩丰富，从Pinks到Yellow，蓝调至Browns，并具有庞大的比例，褶边和颜色阻挡的条纹。

The catwalk also formed an exciting testing ground for Troika, who used it to experiment with salt, and the use of what Ruki terms as a – ‘space age’ – lightbox backdrop to aid the kaleidoscopic projections. ‘In terms of a fashion show, we were really interested in the fact different elements like sound and visuals can be overlaid with each other,’ Ruki adds. ‘And also the fact that it is a temporal event with models looping around the catwalk’.

对于三驾马车来说，T台还形成了一个令人兴奋的试验场，他们用它来实验食盐，并使用Ruki所说的“太空时代”-灯箱背景来帮助进行千变万化的投射。“就时装秀而言，我们非常感兴趣的是，声音和视觉等不同元素可以相互覆盖，”Ruki补充道。还有一个事实是，这是一个时态事件，模特们在T台上绕着圈。

The runway installation also bought a new element of experience to those attending Roksanda’s show, part catwalk event, part artwork, exploring the changeability of colour. ‘It’s like a colourful path merging mine and Troika’s worlds,’ Ilinčić adds. §

跑道的安装还为参加Roksanda展览的人购买了新的体验元素，部分是猫步活动，一部分是艺术品，探索颜色的可变性。Ilinčić补充说，这就像一条融合了我的世界和三驾马车世界的五彩缤纷的道路。§

Roksanda与艺术集体“三驾马车”合作，在一个五颜六色的A/W 2019年跑道上展示了六条彩虹投影。这张照片由Roksanda与艺术集体“三驾马车”合作在一个五颜六色的A/W 2019年跑道上进行，跑道上有六个彩虹投影。罗克桑达提供的图片

Roksanda与艺术集体“三驾马车”合作，在一个五颜六色的A/W 2019年跑道上展示了六条彩虹投影。这张照片由Roksanda与艺术集体“三驾马车”合作在一个五颜六色的A/W 2019年跑道上进行，跑道上有六个彩虹投影。罗克桑达提供的图片

Roksanda与艺术集体“三驾马车”合作，在一个五颜六色的A/W 2019年跑道上展示了六条彩虹投影。这张照片由Roksanda与艺术集体“三驾马车”合作在一个五颜六色的A/W 2019年跑道上进行，跑道上有六个彩虹投影。罗克桑达提供的图片

Roksanda与艺术集体“三驾马车”合作，在一个五颜六色的A/W 2019年跑道上展示了六条彩虹投影。这张照片由Roksanda与艺术集体“三驾马车”合作在一个五颜六色的A/W 2019年跑道上进行，跑道上有六个彩虹投影。罗克桑达提供的图片