Sabine Marcelis creates ten fountains for Fendi to commemorate a decade of the Italian brand’s participation in Design Miami. Photography: Qui Yang

Water, one of the most essential elements of life – has long been a central creative feature for Fendi. Some 40 years ago, the house found inspiration in the waters in Rome, producing Histoire d’Eau, the first film in the history of fashion, to present its inaugural ready-to-wear collection for women through a young model traversing the fountains of Rome. Now, Fendi is continuing its fascination with the theme; this time by commissioning Dutch designer Sabine Marcelis to create a series of installations during Design Miami that also take their inspiration from the Italian capital’s fountains.

水是生命中最基本的元素之一，长期以来一直是芬迪的一个中心创造性特征。大约40年前，这座房子在罗马的水域发现了灵感，以时尚的历史制作了《奥诺》(HistoireD*Eau)，通过一个穿越罗马喷泉的年轻模特，为女性提供了自己的就职准备。现在，芬迪继续对这个主题感兴趣；这次由荷兰设计师SabineMarcells调试，在设计迈阿密期间创建一系列设施，也从意大利首都的喷泉那里获得灵感。

‘FF’ has water resting in a carved concave void. Photography: Carl Kleiner

“FF”有水在雕刻的凹空中休息。摄影：卡尔·克莱纳

Marcelis came to the design world’s attention with her luminous masterpieces in glass and resin, which she manipulates in such a way as to create the similar fluid quality of water. ‘Water is such an interesting material because of its changing state of shape and appearance,’ she says. ‘It’s such a luxurious thing as well; it’s much undervalued and I think it’s nice to showcase its beauty in a luxurious manner like this.’

Marcelis来到了设计界关注她在玻璃和树脂中的发光杰作，她以这样一种方式操纵，以创造类似的水的流体质量。她说，“水是一种有趣的材料，因为它的形状和外观的变化状态。”她说，“水是如此奢华的东西，它被低估了，我觉得用这样的奢华的方式展示它的美丽是很好的。”

‘Labirinto’ features a labyrinth pattern holding water. Photography: Carl Kleiner

“迷宫”的特点是一个迷宫式的水。摄影：卡尔·克莱纳

This body of new work, ‘The Shapes of Water’, will be presented at Design Miami in December to mark the 10th anniversary of Fendi’s collaboration with the design fair.

这个新的作品“水的形状”将于12月在迈阿密设计，纪念Fendi与设计博览会的合作10周年。

Female designers have been something of a rarity in the field of high design, yet Fendi has collaborated with a number of them, including Maria Pergay, Cristina Celestino and Chiara Andreatti. Silvia Venturini Fendi, heir to the furrier and leather goods company, who is responsible for commissioning the intallations says, ‘Over these 10 years, I have noted that women designers pay more attention to the context while men focus on the one-of-a-kind piece.’

在高设计领域，女性设计师是少有的，但芬迪已经与其中的许多人合作，包括玛丽亚·佩尔盖、克里斯蒂娜·塞莱斯蒂诺和恰拉·安德烈亚蒂(Chiara Andreatti)。皮毛和皮具公司的继承人西尔维娅·文图里尼·芬迪(Silvia Venturini Fendi)负责设计这套服装，她说：“在这10年里，我注意到，女性设计师更注重语境，而男性则更注重一种风格。”

‘Tegole’ has water flowing down its angled patterned surface. Photography: Carl Kleiner

“Teogle”的水在其倾斜的图案表面流下。摄影:卡尔·克莱纳

The fountain theme has particular resonance for Fendi. In 2013, the fashion house set up the Fendi for Fountains initiative to restore the famous Trevi Fountain and several others as part of its commitment to Rome and its culture. Marcelis has created ten travertine-mounted, cast-resin fountains incorporating water, each of which represents a Fendi icon. ‘When I went to the headquarters to see the atelier,’ says Marcelis, ‘the precision and care applied to create the designs was very impressive. And I think because I’m so interested in production processes and the use of materials, it was very interesting to see how Fendi also has the same love and care for craft and materials.’

喷泉的主题对芬迪有着特别的共鸣。2013年，作为对罗马和罗马文化的承诺的一部分，这家时装公司设立了Fendi for Founders倡议，以恢复著名的Trevi喷泉和其他几个喷泉。马塞利斯已经创造了十个钙华镶嵌，铸造树脂喷泉与水，其中每一个代表一个芬迪图标。马塞利斯说：“当我去总部参观工作室时，设计的精确性和谨慎性令人印象深刻。”我认为，因为我对生产工艺和材料的使用非常感兴趣，所以看到芬迪对工艺和材料也有同样的热爱和关心，这是非常有趣的。

‘Selleria’ incorporates a hollow tube, the water is pumped up and then flows from the spout. Photography: Carl Kleiner

“小卖草”包括一根空心管，水被泵出，然后从喷口流出。摄影:卡尔·克莱纳

The exhibition is designed as a discrete space for visitors to explore, where one hears just the water and can observe the movements up close. Some of the fountains are quiet; others – which contain pumps to propel the water upwards — are louder. And the designer has choreographed them in such a way that as one walks through the space these differences are noticeable, giving the installation both visual and acoustic qualities. The serene simplicity of the fountains is deceptive, however; a complex mechanism provides the magic unseen. §

展览被设计成一个独立的空间，让游客探索，在那里，人们只听到水和可以观察近距离的运动。一些喷泉是安静的，而另一些喷泉则是响亮的-其中装有推动水向上的泵。而设计师的编舞方式是这样的，当一个人在空间中穿行时，这些差异是显而易见的，给安装提供了视觉和声学的质量。然而，喷泉的宁静简单却具有欺骗性；复杂的机制提供了看不见的魔力。§

Read more about ‘The Shapes of Water’ project in the current December 2018 issue of Wallpaper* (W*237)

在2018年12月发布壁纸*(W*237)时，阅读有关“水的形状”项目的更多信息

“Intarsi”是一种被打乱的水流模式；“Astuccio”有一排垂直通道，水在该模式之间流动。摄影：卡尔·凯鹏华盈(CarlKleiner)的“因塔西”(Intarsi)是一种被打乱的水流模式；“阿斯图乔”(Astuccio)有一排垂直通道，水摄影：卡尔·克莱纳

‘FF’(左)的特点是在一个立方体内冒泡的水；‘罗马日落’溢出水在两边。摄影：卡尔凯鹏华盈(左)的特点是在一个立方体内冒泡的水；‘罗马日落’溢出水在两边。摄影：卡尔·克莱纳