Restaurant: North Road, London Chef: Christoffer Hruskova Cooking with hay is an old Scandinavian tradition, dating back to the Vikings, so for Danish chef Christoffer Hruskova, it is a means to reconnect with his heritage. He began experimenting with burnt hay at his bistro, Fig, four years ago and it now features regularly on the menu at North Road, the London restaurant he opened last year. www.northroadrestaurant.co.uk

在森林、树篱和海岸线上觅食美食珍宝已成为当今年轻厨师们的例行程序。但是，正如我们12月份的一期(现在出版)所显示的那样，他们的农村搜索活动正在蔓延到农田，干草成了他们的选择之路。几个世纪以来，干草一直在厨房里发挥作用，主要是作为一种用于烘焙肉类的草本植物包装(给出它的法国名称-‘dans le foin’)，或者作为一种芳香的烟剂。发现它的创新用途现在已成为人们最喜欢的烹饪消遣：根据18世纪的食谱，赫斯顿·布卢门塔尔(Heston Blumenthal)在干草上抽着他的鲭鱼，而伦敦北路干草公司(North Road Hy)的克里斯托·赫鲁斯科娃(Christoff Hruskova)则烤他的兔子，在纽约的La Fonda del Sol，羊肉用干草煮熟，并配以干草混合的酸奶。与此同时，在东村的万达(Vandaag)，干草被用在许多不同的方式上，从吸烟面包到增加库存和冷饮扇贝。芹菜、甜面包、鸡肉、鹿肉、小牛肉和虾仁也都得到了治疗，在各种餐厅，包括纽约的让·乔治(Jean Georges)和伦敦的北路(North Road)，它甚至是调味冰淇淋。我们已经从世界各地的餐馆收集了一些更有趣的干草填充的盘子，并要求北路的赫鲁斯科娃解释它的吸引力。你为什么用干草做饭？克里斯托·赫鲁斯科娃：这是斯堪的纳维亚人的古老传统，可以追溯到维京人。烧焦的干草被用作保存食物的一种手段-就像把烧焦的桦树扔进水里一样，用来治疗鱼和肉。这个传统被遗忘了一段时间。当我还是个孩子的时候，它肯定没有被使用过。但是，最近我们开始回顾我们的传统，重新发现这些奇妙的技术。四年前，我开始在我的小酒馆“无花果”(Fig)上试验烧干草，去年我开了“北路”(NorthernRoad)，它将永远是菜单上经常出现的东西。干草的味道有什么特别的？焦干草能给食物带来轻微的酸度，如果你认为它最初是一种保存技术，这是有意义的。它还提供了一种焦味，是非常深和土。你用干草做肉和冰淇淋。这是一种很容易让两个人都喜欢的味道吗？CH：当然。与肉类，烧焦的味道是一个非常自然的伴奏，与甜的菜肴，它可以用来做一个更细坚果的味道。你怎么做干草冰淇淋？我们为冰淇淋、蛋黄、糖和奶油做了一个奶油基座。

Restaurant: North Road, London Chef: Christoffer Hruskova Dish: Norfolk wild rabbit and burnt hay with jellied pear aquavit and comice pear

Restaurant: North Road, London Chef: Christoffer Hruskova Dish: Hay ice cream, sea buckthorn and liquorice 'bonfire'. The black 'ash' on the plate is liquorice

Restaurant: Coi, San Francisco Chef: Daniel Patterson Dish: Young carrots roasted in hay with sprouts, radish powder and shaved pecorino Daniel Patterson's philosophy of shining a light on produce means that his kitchen at Coi in San Francisco uses foraged or locally sourced ingredients in delicate yet startling dishes. He says that cooking with hay adds a complexity and sweet, smoky, herbaceous flavour to dishes that can't be achieved any other way. coirestaurant.com

Restaurant: Noma, Copenhagen Chef: Rene Redzepi Dish: Smoked Quail's egg A quail's egg, delicately blanched, smoked with birchwood and hay just before serving, at Rene Redzepi's superlative Noma in Copenhagen, twice ranked the 'world's best restaurant'. Photography: Ditte Isager www.noma.dk

Restaurant: Dinner by Heston Blumenthal at the Mandarin Oriental, London Chef: Heston Blumenthal Dish: Hay smoked mackerel, lemon salad, gentlemen's relish and olive oil These mackerel fillets are cured in bergamot, smoked in hay and served with a garlic, anchovy and bread sauce. Blumenthal says that this dish follows the British tradition of smoking the food with whatever was available locally, in this case fresh meadow hay. Photography: Ashley Palmer-Watts www.mandarinoriental.com

Restaurant: Vandaag, New York Chef: Humberto Guallpa Dish: Cheese toast made with hay-smoked country white bread and pear butter This Dutch/Danish all-day bakery, bar and restaurant in New York is big on hay. It serves a smoked pumpkin soup, a sea weed salad with smoked goose breast, smoked mackerel, smoked beer with cheese ice cream and a cheese toast made with hay-smoked country white bread with pear butter, and, you guessed it, they are all smoked with the cattle fodder. www.vandaagnyc.com

Restaurant: Vandaag, New York Chef: Humberto Guallpa Guallpa's hay-smoked bread basket

keywords:hay, hay trend, cooking with hay, heston blumenthal, Christoffer Hruskova, chefs, lifestyle, cooking

关键词：干草，干草趋势，干草烹饪，赫斯顿·布鲁门塔尔，克里斯托·赫鲁斯科娃，厨师，生活方式，烹饪