a tour of the new acne studio in londons mayfair

2010-07-15 11:31
The façade In readiness for its unveiling to the public, the new Acne Studio on Dover Street's windows are covered in a collage of pages from the Acne Paper, the brand's bi-annual magazine - just one of the collective's many different creative ventures. The store takes over four floors of what was once a house before it became a gallery. 'Ever since we formed Acne, we always talked about a house with different levels of creativity to house all of our artistic endeavours, says Jonny Johansson. 'We have the house in Stockholm - a large old bank once owned by the Wallenberg family - and to be able to recreate that in Mayfair was one of my absolute dreams.' 
粉刺工作室在伦敦雄心勃勃的新店覆盖了梅菲尔一家前画廊的四层楼。这是瑞典品牌在英国的第一个前哨,它是一座极简主义的白色寺庙,里面有赫尔穆特·朗(Helmut Lang)、卡特琳娜·杰布(Katerina Jebb)和胡萨姆·埃尔·奥德(Husam El Odeh)等人的艺术品,这个空间感觉很现代。当我们偶然发现它时,我很想知道我们能否在这种环境下生活,“该品牌的创意总监乔尼·约翰逊(Jonny Johansson)说。该品牌的门店种类繁多,从斯德哥尔摩的一家银行到纽约的一家流行音乐创意店。在这里,他带我们参观了这家新店。
强尼·约翰逊(JonnyJohansson)说:“Acne不像某些品牌,它们的概念包罗万象,他们可以把自己的世界包围起来,无论身在何处,都可以推出。”与以前的商店有很大不同的东西是需要在阿恩的伦敦空间。我心里想,“一家画廊-那真的很难。我们不是在创造艺术。它不在我们的DNA里。“但我喜欢挑战。“
他说:“如果他期待着他的时尚收藏像艺术品一样被崇拜,他说:“我明白你的意思,我害怕它。”但是最著名的是它的牛仔裤——对于这种姿态来说太低了。
“我们在这里所拥有的是一个画廊空间,而不是画廊。
在这个项目中途,我很后悔选择它,因为它基本上是一个白色的立方体,但是这个空间感觉是对的,而且附近有很多画廊,所以我认为它很适合这个地区。"
痤疮的商店现在他们的20多岁-相当帝国的一个品牌,才诞生于1996年。它最初是一家广告公司和松散的集体制作电影和音乐的名字,野心,创造新颖的表达。现在,除了时尚标签,还有家具收藏,一个儿童玩具部门,一个生产公司和著名的Acne纸业杂志。下一个?巴黎的一家商店,在完全不同的环境:一个改装车库在马莱。
The menswear floor This floor is home to artworks by Jean Cocteau - 'we work with him a lot as a reference for the main collection,' says the creative director - and a piano that will be used for live music at weekends. Music is very important to Johansson, who was a guitarist in several bands before founding Acne and is currently learning the piano. Is he tempted to come and have a play? 'Maybe... if I'm feeling strong enough.'
The menswear floor Mannequins in the window of the new store
The womenswear floor At one end of the womenswear floor is a dramatic series of three screens, painted by Jeremiah Goodman. The illustrator recreated scenes from Johansson's office in Stockholm. 'A stylist friend of mine gave me his book and I fell in love with his illustrations,' he says, pointing out the tome on a stool. 'To wish for something and get exactly what you wanted is just fantastic.' 
The womenswear floor Spread around the store are sofas from Acne's new furniture collection. Their sloping forms and proportions are based on perspective studies of Carl Malmsten's 1930s 'Nya Berlin' sofa. 'It was really interesting researching the history of Swedish furniture,' says Johansson. 'I also wanted to bring our approach to fashion to furniture. We work more as neoclassicists than modernists with our fashion collections, which we've translated to furniture design.' New pieces are soon to be added to the collection, which currently also includes a drawing table.
The denim floor The white walls throughout the building are softened by typically Scandinavian pine flooring. 'I like things that weather over time, just like jeans,' the creative director explains. Dispersed around this floor are artworks by the likes of Katerina Jebb, including a self portrait, signed by Hugh Hefner. 'Katerina is a friend of ours and I wanted her to be part of this store. Her work suits the rawness of the denim department.'
The denim floor 'When I created these floors, I wanted them to relate to friends that I have worked with or people I admire,' says Johansson. To that end, giant eagle-inspired sculptures by Helmut Lang take pride of place at one end of the room. 'Helmut, who now works as an artist, was one of the most important designers for me, inspiration-wise. When I started becoming interested in fashion for real, there was a little store in Sweden that sold his clothing and I felt a million dollars in it. Helmut was one of the first people that I really admired.'
The gallery With its abundance of natural light and high ceilings, this space on the top floor - which leads onto the terrace - most obviously speaks of its past. Shoes and accessories are displayed on plinths before a giant screen, made for Acne by Stockholm City Theatre. 'I wanted something that was a bit scenic and would emphasise the height of the ceiling,' he says. 'I also love materials that have a certain rawness. Perhaps that's the Swede in me.' Everything in this space is moveable, which will enable it to be used for meetings and occasionally relaxing with a glass of champagne.
keywords:Acne Studios
关键词:痤疮工作室
粉刺工作室在伦敦雄心勃勃的新店覆盖了梅菲尔一家前画廊的四层楼。这是瑞典品牌在英国的第一个前哨,它是一座极简的白色寺庙,里面有赫尔穆特·朗、卡特琳娜·杰布和胡萨姆·奥德(Husam El Odeh)等人的作品。

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