louis vuitton marc jacobs exhibition at muse des arts dcoratifs paris
2012-03-09 17:45
The 'Louis Vuitton - Marc Jacobs' exhibition at Paris' Musée des Arts Décoratifs presents a story of two men - the brand's founder Louis Vuitton (1821 - 1892) and Marc Jacobs who became creative director in 1997
直到15年前马克·雅可布以创意总监的身份来到现场,路易·威登才可能开始生产现成的服装,但服装一直是品牌旅程的重要组成部分。Vuitton在马尔查尔的一个学徒中磨练了自己的躯干制作和包装技巧,他在1854建立了自己的品牌,自称为“时尚包装专家”。当你认为一位女士一天需要更换六次左右的衣服——一个简单的旅行需要30个箱子时,他是一个严肃的生意。
“路易威登-马克·雅各布斯”(Louis Vuitton-Marc Jacobs)在巴黎艺术博物馆(Musée des Arts Décoratifs)举办的“路易威登-马克·雅各布斯”(Louis Vuitton-Marc Jacobs)展览,深入研究了该品牌的丰富历史,并庆祝其现在的辉煌。展览展示了该品牌两个个性的平行故事,并强调了它们对时尚的个人贡献。
此次展览深入探讨了威登19世纪工业化和雅各布斯21世纪全球化时期的时装业。巧妙地,它利用了博物馆的19世纪的时尚和配件收藏,这加强了路易威登的衣裤展示在一楼。一堵墙展示了当维登还年轻的时候,女人应该带着什么去旅行-帮助人们了解包装商的服务是如何成为一项基本要求的。
马克雅各布斯在1997年加入该公司时面临的挑战是将女装和男装系列介绍给这家有143年历史的公司。雅各布斯在没有忽略签名屋密码的情况下,开始了一个充满活力的创作过程,与斯蒂芬·斯普鲁斯(Stephen Sprouse)、村上隆(Takashi Murakami)和理查德·普林斯(Richard Prince)等品牌进行了艺术合作-将“时尚与艺术”配方装瓶,如今该配方已成为时装业的标准。
第二层的通道雅可布的邪教,已经稳步建立了15年来,他驾驶路易·威登船。贾景晖的这个世界,在展览中用他最具象征性的设计作品进行了探索,还展示了一个妙趣横生的视频墙展示,让访问者一瞥他是如何勾引的。在这里,照片和摘录的电影选择雅可布(下降到实际帧),特色芭芭拉史翠珊,Leigh Bowery,海绵宝宝,伊丽莎白泰勒,大卫·鲍伊,缪西娅·普拉达和Peter Marino。
这是一个爆炸性的,有趣的组合。这里有一个‘偷窥秀’室,里面有所有威登时装秀的每一段视频。与此同时,马克·雅各布斯(Marc Jacobs)在每一场演出后都会按惯例鞠躬的剪辑,不仅让人着迷地概括了他多年来的身体变化(他失去了马尾辫、眼镜,变得越来越流行),而且他的快速挥手和试探性走上台步的步伐,已经发展成了如今更加自信的狂妄自大。而不仅仅是展示娱乐,字幕也同样吸引人的注意力,标题如‘哦!克,“从头发到永恒”和“布鲁斯·威登”。
Louis Vuitton set up his own brand in 1854, touting himself as the 'specialist in the packing of fashions'. Typically, a lady of the day would travel with around 30 trunks at a time
When Louis Vuitton started out as a packer-to-hire, a lady was expected to change her outfit around six times a day. Pictured here is a single day's wardrobe
Marc Jacobs's challenge, when he joined the company in 1997, was to introduce womenswear and menswear collections to the 143-year-old company's remit. Pictured here are two of Jacobs' creations, with custom-made headgear by Stephen Jones
Richard Prince 'Nurses' from the S/S 2008 Louis Vuitton fashion show, October 2007, featuring bags from the Jokes Monogram line created by Richard Prince
A selection of Louis Vuitton trunks, including a bed-trunk in Damier canvas (1891), complete with folding horse hair mattress
Under Jacobs' creative charge, the brand has embarked on artistic collaborations with the likes of Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Murakami and Richard Prince. Pictured here is the Stephen Sprouse cabinet
A collection of historical trunks
On the second floor of the exhibition space is a selection of Marc Jacobs' most emblematic designs. Pictured left: pieces from the Spring / Summer 2010 ready-to-wear collection
The show makes use of the museum's 19th century fashion and accessory collection, which bolsters the display of Louis Vuitton's trunks on the first floor. Pictured here is a doll trousseau, circa 1865
X-ray-style photographs reveal the the contents of a typical lady's trunk in the 19th century
A giant 'chocolate box' of hit bags designed by Marc Jacobs over the 15 years of his tenureship with the Louis Vuitton
Early examples of the Louis Vuitton monogram canvas
Articulated manequins with Koonsian balloon heads
Exhibition view of the Takashi Murakami display on the left, and custom-made headgear by Stephen Jones on the right
An exhibition catalogue, entitled 'Louis Vuitton / Marc Jacobs', features interviews with Marc Jacobs by Murray Healy, and texts by Véronique Belloir, Denis Bruna, Jo-Ann Fourniss, éric Pujalet-Plaa, Delphine Saurat and Francoise Vittu
keywords:Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs
关键词:路易威登,马克·雅各布斯
直到15年前马克·雅可布以创意总监的身份来到现场,路易·威登才可能开始生产现成的服装,但服装一直是品牌旅程的重要组成部分。磨砺他的躯干制作和包装技能为…
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