Fashion photographer Koto Bolofo has created an apparel collection for Anthropologie, the story of which is documented in a new book published by Steidl

在为“Vogue”、“路易威登”(Louis Vuitton)和爱马仕(Hermès)等品牌拍摄时装近30年后，科托·博洛福(Koto Bolofo)现在已经从相机后面走出来，推出了他与美国品牌“Anthropologie”博洛福的职业生涯之所以引人入胜，实际上是因为他对面料质量下降感到沮丧。他说：“作为过去27年的时尚摄影师，我注意到制作服装所用的材料随着时间的推移而恶化。”现在一件套衫或一件衬衫看起来很好看，但是你把它放在洗衣里，它就会滚开。在拍摄照片时，它常常让我感到沮丧，因为我知道这些布料不那么贴图，因此不那么上镜。六年前，波洛福发现了一堆老式的亚麻床单-有的来自医院和修道院，有的来自农民和贵族家庭。他不仅对衣服的质地感兴趣，还被床单背后被遗忘的历史所吸引。他开始设计原型服装，并从他身边的一位女裁缝那里得到了帮助。过去20年，他一直住在一个有500名居民的小村庄里。在一年的时间里，博洛福在他的妹夫的帮助下记录了他的创作，他的妹夫是他的女婿，她制作了这些服装。在多年沉睡在他的后备箱里之后，博洛福的原型偶然地重新浮出水面，当时他为他拍摄了许多活动的长期客户Anthropologie，邀请他为这个品牌创建自己的项目。复制到他的原始作品的精确规格-在一个收藏品的主要关注点是它的销售能力的企业中的罕见之处-新系列的作品伴随着一本名为“梦想”的书。博洛福是由Steidl出版的，是博洛福几年前拍摄的原创作品的引人入胜的叙述。尽管“梦之士”(Dreams)显然与“人类之家”(Anthropologie)关系良好-该品牌已经表示对“第二部”作品感兴趣-但博洛福清楚地指出，他的根基深深植根于摄影。他说，这种材料对我来说总是一种催化剂，可以促进我的摄影。“梦中的创造”既敏感又吸引人，最终有助于捕捉博洛福的艺术哲学。

Six years ago, Bolofo found a stash of vintage linen sheets – some from hospitals and convents, others from the homes of peasants and aristocrats...

Fascinated not only by the texture, but by the forgotten histories behind the sheets, he began designing prototype garments and enlisting the help of a seamstress who lived down the road from him in Vendée, France

After lying dormant in a trunk for years, Bolofo's original prototypes resurfaced by chance when Anthropologie, a long-time client for whom he has shot many campaigns, invited him to create his own project for the brand

He used the prototypes as the basis of his collection for Anthrolopogie

The accompanying book, titled 'Dreams', is an engaging narrative of the original creations that Bolofo photographed years earlier

A poetic spread from the book

A poetic spread from the book

Bolofo’s fashion venture was inspired by his frustration with the decline in quality fabrics...

... ‘As a fashion photographer for the past 27 years, I've noticed that the materials used to make the garments have deteriorated through time,’ he says. 'It used to frustrate me during shoots knowing that the fabrics weren't so texturised, and thus not as photogenic'

Dreams has clearly gone down well with Anthropologie – the brand has already indicated its interest in a 'second' installment...

... yet Bolofo is quick to point out his roots are firmly planted in photography. ‘The material was always a catalyst for me to further my photography,’ he says

Sensitive and engaging, Dreams ultimately serves to capture Bolofo’s artistic philosophy

The new collection reproduces the original pieces to their exact specification – a rarity in a business where the main preoccupation of a collection is its ability to sell

The Koto Bolofo collection for Anthropologie

The Koto Bolofo collection for Anthropologie

keywords:Koto Bolofo, south african photographer, anthropologie, fashion design, photography, fashion photography

关键词：Koto Bolofo，南非摄影师，人类学，时装设计，摄影，时尚摄影