In  'No Longer/Not Yet', Gucci's Alessandro Michele shuns the usual exhibition tropes when dealing with the Chinese market, in favour of an exploration of the elusive idea of the contemporary. Pictured: Glen Luchford's work. Courtesy Xie Yingjie

在接近中国市场时，奢侈品公司往往会回顾过去，通过钻研档案来强调品牌的传承和真实性。

亚历桑德罗·米歇尔(Alessandro Michele)担任创意总监的任期，见证了古驰愿景的重新创造，这一愿景得到了普遍好评。他的第一次展览，在上海民生艺术博物馆，避开了所有通常的展览奖杯。

意大利哲学家乔治·阿伽本(GiorgioAgamben)的“当代是什么？”是一本深刻影响米歇尔及其古驰藏书的书。他和共同策展人凯蒂·格兰德利用阿伽本的观点探讨了“当代”的概念，以及时装业中复杂而矛盾的时间概念。

米歇尔解释说：“在第一场女装时装秀之后，我们想在亚洲做点什么，我和凯蒂(Grand)谈过让艺术家们聚在一起，开启当代的对话。”“哲学能给你一个思考和好奇的机会。”

七位中国和国际艺术家利用装置、摄影、绘画和声音设计来探索这一概念，同时也是时尚的常态。古驰的参与是灵巧的，艺术家们站在最前沿：与以前在中国大陆举办的展览完全不同。

多媒体艺术家曹飞评论了中国快速的城市扩张，展示了她工作室周围的区域被摧毁的视频片段，旁边还有一群机器人吸尘器不断清扫古驰地毯。

奈杰尔·沙夫兰的照片记录了米其莱目前收藏的九个月前的创作过程。他问道，“一个设计师怎么能预先塑造出当代的形象呢？”

艺术家米歇尔(Michele)在Instagram上发现了一位技术不熟练的工人，他创作了一系列朴素的肖像，描绘了穿着古奇服装的人。米歇尔透露，这是一部介于现实生活和社交媒体之间的作品。“这是我和公司生活的一幅壁画。”

“我们试图做的是挑起一个问题，”格兰特补充说。这感觉是做不同类型展览的合适时机。

试图预测当代难以捉摸的脉搏是一场赌博。举办一个没有实际时尚内容的古驰展览更是如此。让我们希望米歇尔的大胆举动融合了创意、当代和商业。

The exhibition hosts seven Chinese and international artists, utilising photography, paintings and sound design to ponder the Italian philosopher Giorgio Agamben's question: 'What is the Contemporary?'. Courtesy Ren Yong

The work of multimedia artist Cao Fei, pictured, uses video footage of her studio being destroyed, as well as an army of robot vacuum cleaners sweeping a Gucci carpet, to comment on China's rapid urban expansion. Courtesy Lu Yuchao

Gucci Tian, by Alessandro Michele, 2015. Courtesy Xie Yingjie

Gucci Tian (full view). Courtesy He Yuchao

Michele explains the motivation behind the theme: 'I talked with Katie [Grand] about bringing together artists to open up the conversation on the contemporary. Philosophy can give you the opportunity to reflect and be curious.’ Courtesy Ren Yong

Agamben's book is at the heart of the exhibition; his ideas are used to explore the complicated and contradictory concept of time within the fashion industry. Pictured: Li Shurui's work. Courtesy Xie Yingjie

Asking how a designer can pre-figure the contemporary, Nigel Shafran’s images document the creative processes that lie behind the nine month lead-in to Michele's current collection. Courtesy Xie Yingjie

‘What we were trying to do was provoke a question,' adds Grand. 'It felt like the right time to do a different kind of exhibition.’ Pictured: the work of Rachel Feinstein. Courtesy Lu Yuchao

Unskilled Worker's display, pictured, features a series of portraits depicting subjects wearing Gucci, of which Michele, who discovered the artist, says, 'it’s a work in progress between real life and social media. It’s a fresco of my life with the company.’ Courtesy Ren Yong

keywords:Gucci, Museums

关键词：古驰博物馆