fendi celebrates karl lagerfelds the glory of water in paris
2013-07-04 14:22
Fendi's 'The Glory of Water' is an exhibition photographed by none other than the brand's artistic director Karl Lagerfeld, who focused his lens on the fountains of Rome
任何人在昨晚的细雨中漫步在塞纳河上(在巴黎从来没有起过威慑作用),就会注意到在华丽的亚历山大三桥附近的堤岸上,沿着黑色测地线风格的帐篷状穹顶,在那里,挂着黄色芬迪国旗的巨大帐篷杆子正与背景中的埃菲尔铁塔展开竞争。不远处,一个热闹的鸡尾酒会,欢庆芬迪在蒙田大道上的新活动的开始,仿佛它是这座城市最热的布拉斯塞里。
Fendi的“一对一”时装系列的最后一晚展示了两种巴黎特色的罗马风格:奢侈品零售和短暂的艺术展览。后者在昏暗的圆顶(形状代表罗马的主要冲天炉)中以“水的荣耀”(The Glory Of Water)的形式出现,这是一个展览,由该品牌的艺术总监卡尔·拉格菲尔德(Karl Lagerfeld)拍摄,他把镜头聚焦在罗马喷泉上。
五十个图像——一些浪漫的、一些忧郁的、所有的解释——都被呈现为围绕着空间的达吉雷霍雷类型,它们的镀银表面反射了光,并产生了几乎超自然的效果(来自吸烟机的微弱的雾霾帮助)。
另有50种出现为铂类,甚至是在日本纸上涉及铂和钯的更纯的光化学过程。
流水的声音流过两个房间。
芬迪与喷泉的关系不仅仅代表了头韵。另一个穹顶是“历史”的放映室,这部长达18分钟的电影“拉格菲尔德”(Lagerfeld)早在1977年就曾为这个品牌展示他的第一批成衣系列,当时,这个品牌以皮毛大衣和配饰而闻名于世。新修复的场合,女演员苏西戴森作为一个睁大眼睛的游客在罗马所有著名的水上纪念碑进行豪华朝圣(她的母亲认为她在巴登)。一个十几岁的西尔维娅·文图里尼·芬迪,现在是创始家族最显眼的面孔,做了一个简短的拜访。
芬迪(Fendi)董事长兼首席执行官皮埃特罗·贝卡里(Pietro Beccari)说,“TODAY,每个人都会拍一部时尚电影,但卡尔在1977年就想到了这一点,这表明他的思维是多么的现代和前卫。”“这个故事围绕着喷泉,这充分说明了罗马的喷泉已经渗透了这位梅森的历史。”
芬迪为确保这一故事的继续做出了重大承诺;今年1月,lvmh拥有的品牌€承诺,作为修复特雷维喷泉的唯一赞助商,这是一项为期四年的计划,也将包括罗马的四座喷泉。
与此同时,蒙田大街的商店暗示,芬迪希望提升其零售形象。设计师GWENA L L尼古拉斯创造了一个闪闪发光的豪华空间,在动态雕塑元素上变得沉重;看不到托尼·克拉格的螺旋柱,它在入口附近向上推进。总部位于巴黎的Maria Pergay在不锈钢和木材中创造了三个特定地点的作品,每一个作品都唤起了大自然(一张巨大的树干所塑造的桌子镶嵌着蓝色、陈旧的残骸)。一个漏斗形的灯具覆盖着多色的有机玻璃条,通过中央楼梯向下投射,而一个专门用于芬迪标志性的Baguette的墙壁被用30000根青铜针刺穿。就好像袋子被一个金色的流星雨捕获了一样。
地面的后面部分主要用于Fendi的订单服务。客户可以从像蒙德里安画一样分割的框架中选择自己的皮肤。尼古拉斯精妙的风格-包在轻轻凸起的壁架上,皮衣栏杆用来展示毛皮配件,一面墙上镶着黑色漆,镶着金色,木地板上的立方体图案-补充吉奥·庞蒂(Gio Ponti)、加布里埃拉·克雷斯皮(Gabriella CResi)和埃尔韦·范德尔·斯特雷滕(HervéVan Der Straeten)设计的家具(一度,这位设计师停下来对他的两盏古铜灯进行装饰)。总之,这家精品店散发出一种永恒的、微妙的魅力,在短期内不需要任何修复或翻新。
贝卡里说,(这家商店)公正地对待了这家公司的老练,我们希望瞄准一位非常成熟的客户,我认为这就是我们要去的地方。“芬迪的品牌和历史理应如此。”
Fendi's relationship with fountains represents more than just alliteration. In January, the LVMH-owned brand pledged €2.1m as the sole sponsor in the restoration of the Trevi Fountain, a four-year initiative that will also include Rome's Four Fountains
For The Glory of Water, a cluster of black geodesic-style tented domes line the embankment near the ornate Pont Alexandre III bridge, where giant tent poles bearing yellow Fendi flags competed for attention with the Eiffel Tower in the background
Fifty of the images - some romantic, some melancholic, all open to interpretation - have been presented as daguerreotypes that encircle the space, their silver-plated surfaces reflecting the light and creating an almost supernatural effect (the faint haze from a smoke machine helped)
Karl Lagerfeld stands at the entrance of The Glory of Water exhibition
Another 50 appeared as platinotypes, an even rarer photo-chemical process involving platinum and palladium on Japanese paper. The sound of rushing water streamed through both rooms
The Glory of the Water remains open to the public until 14 July, and a book of the images has been published by Steidl
A photograph from The Glory of Water, by Karl Lagerfeld
A photograph from The Glory of Water, by Karl Lagerfeld
A short distance away from the exhibition, a bustling cocktail party celebrated the opening of Fendi's new space on the Avenue Montaigne
Designer Gwenaël Nicolas has created a gleaming, sumptuous store that goes heavy on dynamic sculptural elements
Nicolas' subtle flourishes - bags resting on gently convex ledges, leather-enrobed rails for displaying fur accessories, a wall in black lacquer cut with gold, the cube-pattern in the wood flooring - complement statement furniture by Gio Ponti, Gabriella Crespi and Hervé Van Der Straeten
Paris-based Maria Pergay created three site-specific works in stainless steel and wood, each evoking nature, including this table molded from an enormous tree trunk, and inlaid with its bluish, aged remnants
Left: A funnel-shaped light fixture covered in multicoloured Perspex strips by Maria Pergay shoots down through the central staircase Right: A spiralling column from Tony Cragg that thrusts upward near the entrance
A wall devoted to Fendi's iconic Baguette has been pierced with 30,000 bronze needles by Maria Pergay
It's as if the bags have been caught in a golden meteor shower
Altogether, the boutique gives off a timeless, nuanced glamour that won't require any sort of restoration or renovation anytime soon
keywords:Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld, Fendi for Fountains, 'The Glory of Water', exhibition, Paris
关键词:芬迪,卡尔拉格菲尔德,芬迪为喷泉,‘荣耀的水’,展览,巴黎
任何人昨晚在细雨中漫步在塞纳河上(在巴黎从来没有起过威慑作用)就会注意到在华丽的亚历山大三桥附近的堤岸上有一簇黑色的测地线式的帐篷状的圆顶,那里有巨大的帐篷柱,上面有y。
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