This season's Pitti Immagine trade show gives the London Collections: Men a run for its runways - kicking off with guest designer Diesel Black Gold in Florence

在过去十年里，男性“时尚”(而非服装)现象的指数增长，推动了在佛罗伦萨举行的皮蒂·伊玛金(Pitti Immagine)贸易展达到21世纪时尚主义的新高度，解放了人们对男人应该如何着装的许多含糊不清的先入为主的观念。

与此同时，这股浪潮也催生了英国时装委员会(British时装委员会)为期三天的男装展示。在这场罕见的交集中，我们在充满活力主题的表演和演讲的旋风中如火如荼地在2014年落幕，设计师们为未来漫长而闪亮的冬天辩护。在皮蒂，客座设计师迪塞尔·布莱克·金和芭芭拉·卡萨索拉在托斯卡纳首都展示的众多传统品牌、牛仔巨头和精品男装品牌中占据了中心位置。

柴油黑金揭开PITTI UMOO作为宾客的设计师的贸易展的第八十五版，改造Stazione Leopolda与LED灯展由巴黎摄影师Thierry Dreyfus。EXI设计师Andreas Melbostad为他的第一个男人的收藏做了一个摇滚明星的初次登场，用任何一件多余的行李（保存了一件或两件）来衬托和镀银的外表，来创造一个瘦削的、塑化的剪影，暗示了一个带电的未来主义。作为柴油的溢价线，也是唯一一个不在创意总监Nicola Formichetti的年轻雨伞之下的黑金，它远离了品牌的“重启”数字革命，然而，它仍然有自己的冲刺。

在鲜明的对比中，巴西设计师芭芭拉·卡萨索拉(BarbaraCasasola)的说法是微妙的本质——她旋转的静物生活和周围的电影放映，让客人们想要更多的来自她的身材定制和女性魅力。
但它在硫酸中所缺乏的是在一个分层的思想过程中重新获得的：从选择DishevedPalazoPorinariSalviati（但丁爱情事件的神话背景）

卡萨索拉的模特和音乐家杰米·博切特(Jamie Bochert)在银幕上现身，身穿灰色、海军蓝、紫罗兰色的裤子和唇膏粉色丝绸在宫殿里游荡，在皮蒂的男装传统和她所签名的女式鸡尾酒连衣裙之间找到了一个诱人的平衡点。

其他亮点包括阿莱桑德罗·戴尔(Alessandro Dell‘Acqua)为其羽翼未丰的品牌N°21首次亮相男装，就在几周前，他在巴黎展示了他的第一个罗卡斯系列。戴尔·阿卡卡(Dell‘Acqua)把男孩们安置在优雅的城市图书馆的一个高架平台上，邀请客人们在阅读桌旁混在一起，看看他的日装分离，它融合了上城区的校服、优雅的格子和条纹羊毛，以及蕾丝和缎子“好玩儿”(Toile De Jouy)的女性化触感，其中印有一幅舞动的马纹。

这两匹马再次出现在图书馆入口处的一个多媒体展厅里，里面放着3D印刷玻璃雕塑和视频屏幕，上面标注着“强大”和“讽刺”等粗体关键词，这为原本简单化的当代都市时尚故事增添了一个令人信服的潜台词。

意大利-海地设计师斯特拉·简(Stella Jean)的男装“绅士俱乐部”(Gentleman‘s Club)是对历史戏仿的错误，她将她标志性的非洲蜡染棉(让人想起印尼蜡染工艺)与格伦花纹和天鹅绒棉被混为一谈。虽然从温暖的冬日灰暗的海洋中晴天的变化，我们无疑会面对在其他地方，她的花哨的调色板是很难接受时，削减作为一个3件维多利亚西装，但为一只罕见的皮蒂孔雀-一个不怕惹怒几根羽毛的男子突出的理由。

Ex-Phi designer Andreas Melbostad made a rock star debut for his first-ever men's collection, with studded and silvered looks shorn of any excess baggage (save a parka or two) to create skinny, plasticised silhouettes suggesting an electrified futurism

In a stark contrast, Pitti's other guest, Brazilian designer Barbara Casasola's prefall presentation at the disheveled Palazzo Portinari Salviati was a softer study of colour-blocked suiting

With the coltish model and musician Jamie Bochert onscreen and a cast of femmes fatales wandering the Palazzo in grey, navy and violet pantsuits and lipstick pink silks, Casasola struck an enticing balance between Pitti's menswear heritage and the girly cocktail frocks she has made her signature

Other highlights included a menswear debut by Alessandro Dell'Acqua for his fledgling label N°21 at the elegant city library (complete with exterior palm projections), just weeks before he shows his first Rochas collection in Paris

Dell'Acqua placed boys on an elevated platform, inviting guests to mingle around the reading desks to view his daywear separates

The designer fused the varsity feel of bomber jackets and anorak coats with uptown furs and pressed cotton shirts worn under fine knitwear

Dell'Acqua made a strong case for contemporary, urban fashion - even spelling out its ease

Erring towards historical parody was the Italo-Haitian designer Stella Jean's men's collection 'Gentleman's Club', in which she mixed her signature African wax print cottons (reminiscent of the Indonesian batik technique) with Glen plaids and velvet quilting

Although a sunny change from the sea of warm winter greys, her garish colour palette was hard to stomach when cut as a 3-piece Victorian suit, yet made a standout case for that rare Pitti peacock – a man unafraid to ruffle a few feathers

keywords:Pitti, Pitti Uomo, Diesel Black Gold, Barbara Casasola, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, N°21, Stella Jean

关键词：Pitti，Pitti Uomo，柴油机黑金，Barbara Casasola，Alessandro Dell‘Acqua，N°21，Stella Jean