arthur arbesser debuts his aw 2014 collection in architect luca cipellettis milan apartment
2014-02-19 13:49
Designer Arthur Arbesser commandeered the private home of architect Luca Cipelletti for the debut of his A/W 2014 collection during Milan Fashion Week
时装设计师亚瑟·阿尔贝瑟(Arthur Arbesser)整整花了三季时间才弄明白,大多数米兰设计师一生中都没有意识到:这座城市最酷的一片被蒙上了关闭的私人住宅的大门。一天晚上,这位30岁的维也纳出生设计师在米兰晚餐时,用套索套住了一套设计精美的20世纪20年代的公寓,作为他2014年A/W女装展示的舞台。
“我一直在问在座的每一个人,”阿尔贝瑟回忆道。他在乔治·阿玛尼(Giorgio Armani)工作了七年,然后在2013年推出了自己的品牌。与他共进晚餐的建筑师卢卡·齐佩莱蒂(Luca Cipelletti)提供了他庄严的六楼公寓,吉奥·庞蒂(Gio Ponti)、ICO·帕里西(ICO Parisi)和古列尔莫·乌尔里希(Guglielmo Ulrich)设计的中世纪家具与埃@@
西佩莱蒂的公寓已经看上去像一个展览空间,这要归功于一系列的墙壁剪贴画,在视觉上把房间连接起来。给一个几乎反射效果的错觉,剪贴画提供了完美的箔阿尔贝瑟的结构,男装色彩的时尚系列。
专门从事博物馆设计的齐佩莱蒂解释说,我们试图在每个房间的家具和时尚之间建立联系和对话。例如,在餐厅里,齐佩莱蒂个人藏品中的陈年欢乐分部(Joy Die)酒庄作为诺曼·福斯特(Norman Foster)透明玻璃桌上的垫子,为一个透明主题设定了基调,这个主题在另一个角落继续由穆拉诺(Murano)玻璃烟灰缸和一条纯粹的芭蕾舞裙和裤子组成。
在客厅里,英国艺术家大卫·特姆利特(DavidTremlett)最近在墙上画了一幅涂有油脂和石墨的艺术品,为阿尔贝瑟(Arbesser)的假男装创造了一个引人注目的背景。与此同时,一件大胆的黑白连衣裙在散热器和高高的化学眼镜旁边找到了一个家,一件印花的阿尔坎塔拉西服从海上泡沫绿色浴砖上冒了出来。
Arbesser咧嘴笑着说:“因为这些衣服都是雌雄同体的,所以在男人的公寓里穿是一件很棒的事。”“希望人们会喜欢来到一个新的空间,看到一些米兰内部的人。”从我们这里拿走,他们会的。
In the living room, an artwork hand-painted on the wall by artist David Tremlett in grease and graphite, 'Trapeziums', creates a striking backdrop for Arbesser's tomboy pantsuit. A pair of Eames chairs, meanwhile, sandwich the 'Y-Tong' block table, designed by Luca Cipelletti and Bernard Dubois
A geometric jacket by Arbesser holds court with Ettore Sottsass' 'Superboxes'
A bold black and white striped dress, meanwhile, finds a home next to a matching radiator, scientific glassware and a side table by Guglielmo Ulrich
A chair by Marcel Breuer (right) and Uglo Mulas' series of 'Waiting' photographs (showing Lucio Fontana at work) are the ideal accompaniment to the pared-down simplicity of Arbesser's structured pieces. 'Compass' by Olafur Eliasson drops down from the ceiling above
Cipelletti's apartment looks like an exhibition space thanks to the series of wall cutouts, visually linking the rooms
Franco Albini's curvaceous 'Margherita' chair provides the perfect contrast to one of Arbesser's boyish jackets
In the dining room vintage Joy Division vinyls from Cipelletti's personal collection serve as place mats on the 'Nomos' table by Norman Foster...
...a transparent theme continues with a collection of Murano glass ashtrays and a sheer ballskirt and pants in the opposite corner
Cipelletti is not afraid of mixing the old with the new in his stately 1920s apartment. Here, early twentieth century oak chairs are placed confidently next to a glass table by Norman Foster
keywords:Fashion designer, Arthur Arbesser, Luca Cipelletti, architect's house, A/W 2014, fashion, Milan Fashion Week
关键词:时装设计师,亚瑟·阿尔贝瑟,卢卡·齐佩莱蒂,建筑师之家,A/W 2014,时尚,米兰时装周
时装设计师Arthur Arbesser整整花了三个年头才知道米兰大多数设计师在一生中都没有意识到的是:这座城市最酷的部分是隐藏在其私人住宅的紧闭门后。对于分期…
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