the grooming trends that shaped new york fashion week aw 2014

2014-03-07 15:33
Alexander Wang: Winter at Alexander Wang offered up a playing field of urban survival. Inspired by the strict, androgynous lines of Alexander Wang's collection, hair stylist Guido Palau created a hard yet shiny, utilitarian hairstyle that was in his own words 'quite boyish'. In the same vein, make-up artist Diane Kendal focused on pure, survivalist beauty with the use of just one product - NARS Matt Multiple stick. With bleached eyebrows, colourless lips and powdered eyelashes, she described the look as 'all about lightness and the shadows between' Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Calvin Klein Collection: Make-up artist Pat McGrath offset A/W's mohair and textured wool tailoring with a beautifully undone 'off-duty' look. Lightly flushed cheeks and a pale pink stained lips softly matched Guido Palau's clean, well-brushed hairstyle, which was tucked into the show's necklines to create an innate air of sophistication
Altuzarra: Led by Joseph Altuzarra's bold use of colour blocking for A/W 2014, make-up artist Tom Pecheux broke up the golden green glitter that covered models' lower and upper eyelids with a vivid swipe of fuchsia lipstick. This daring, yet luxurious pink design was only painted on a select few, creating a unique look that was as strong and empowering as Altuzarra's collection
Diesel Black Gold: Inspired by Diesel's noir and silver toned collection, Guido Palau created an army of elfin creatures for A/W. Flawlessly slick, side-parted hair was tucked behind models' ears to define this futuristic look. Make-up artist Pat McGrath contrasted the galactic feel by defining the girls' natural beauty - highlighting the cheekbones and structured brows, but leaving the rest of the face prefectly clean
Hugo Boss: Inspired by the clean and precisely-cut collection that marked Jason Wu's Hugo Boss debut, make-up artist Pat McGrath used a simple taupe shadow to create a graphic, yet subtle, winged-eye. With a sleek, side-parted and secured hairstyle by Guido Palau, the Hugo Boss woman showcased an enviable strength for A/W
Marc by Marc Jacobs: This season, the MBMJ girl was part ninja, part BMX biker - essentially athletic, with an attitude to match. To define this sporty edge, make-up artist Dick Page heavily traced the shape of each model's eyes with black pencil liner, and then doused the lashes in thick mascara. The severity of the eyes contrasted with hair stylist Guido Palau's tightly constructed pigtail plaits - creating a teenage goth that was both sweet and sour
Donna Karan: The softly blended, silver eye at Donna Karan was designed to emulate 'a woman out on a New York night'. In the same way that Karan's collection balanced masculine, structured jackets and coats with the feminine softness of sheer and floaty skirts, Charlotte Tilbury traced the inner eye with dark liner, giving definition to an otherwise smudged look
Jason Wu: To enhance Jason Wu's signature feminine sophistication, this season dominated by a cinched waist, Diane Kendal kept the make-up to an androgynous minimum. With one simple line of liquid liner and the use of warm, nude tones to create seductive definition, Kendal created a clean and effortless look that worked with Wu's designs to create the appearance of the perfectly polished and self-assured Wu woman
Edun: Charlotte Tilbury tapped pink lipstick high up on the cheekbones to create 'beautifully, cherry-pinched cheeks as if they had been running through the snow on a spring evening' for Edun. Forsaking mascara, eyebrows were groomed upwards to frame the eyes and create an ethereal appearance that perfectly complemented the textured and side-swept hair design
Marc Jacobs: It was inevitable that after committing to just one show this season, François Nars was going to create the most talked about make-up look of New York Fashion Week. Inspired by Marc Jacobs' dream-like collection, Nars used a muted and matte colour palette to perfection. The models' features were then accentuated by hair stylist Guido Palau's blunt-cut, coloured wigs and bleached brows, with Jacobs' girls became frosty, porcelain doll-like creatures
Lacoste: Make-up artist Mayia Alleaume appealed to the fashion house's sporty roots at Lacoste, keeping A/W's look 'fresh, strong and very nude'. Leaving the skin foundation-free, the models' cheeks were softly blushed to give the desired 'just off the green' flush. With nails painted a sheer nude colour, the Lacoste girl remained both practical and effortlessly cool
Michael Kors: The ultimate Californian girl is tanned, healthy and flawless - three qualities which are no mean feat to possess. Yet, each and every season that the Kors' girls glide down the catwalk, they are the definition of this goddess-like stereotype. With radiant, sun-kissed skin, perfected by Dick Page, and romantically tousled hair by Orlando Pita, the Kors girl is evidently immune to the harshness of winter
Narciso Rodriguez: Despite committing to the creation of a naturally glowing fresh face for Narciso Rodriguez, make-up artist Dick Page steered clear of what is without doubt the number one beauty essential: mascara. Instead, Page illuminated the face and brighten the eyes, while the girls' poker-straight hair was parted in the centre by Paul Hanlon, creating a refined and flawless finish
3.1 Phillip Lim: To quote Phillip Lim's head make-up artist Francelle Daly and the English punk band The Clash: it's time to 'Rock the Casbah'. In other words, rebel. This punk-inspired ethos led Daly to create a bold, angled, square brow, while hair stylist Paul Hanlon created a wet, textured hairstyle that was scraped-off the face to create an understated, cool edge. With enough grit to retain the all-important impression of defiant indifference, Daly and Hanlon created a look that was instinctively 3.1
Proenza Schouler: With the aim of creating a minimal, but flawless look, Diane Kendal steered clear of colour this season, simply accentuating the models' features with neutral tones. Paul Hanlon then created a neat, yet undone hairstyle that looked as cool and nonchalant as the models themselves
Opening Ceremony: Inspired by Pantone's 2014 Colour of the Year 'Radiant Orchid', Opening Ceremony's visionary founders Humberto Leon and Carol Lim used the vibrant hue to bring their latest collection to life. In the same way, make-up maestro Aaron de Mey enhanced the models' cheekbones with a purple-toned rouge. The outcome? A feminine, flushed and seductive glow
Rag & Bone: Natural and radiant skin by Gucci Westman was key to the rock 'n' roll feel of the make-up at Rag & Bone. The effortlessness of the skin, juxtaposed with a thick flick of black liner, gave the impression of a last minute make-up application, and subsequently, carefree and indifferent sophistication. This 'street, urban, cool' was then emphasised with 'Saturday morning hair' by Paul Hanlon
Reed Krakoff: A/W 2014 was a seriously silky and slinky affair at Reed Krakoff. Diane Kendal ensured that this same sexy sophistication was translated to the models' dewy faces by keeping the make-up direction to an absolute minimum. Forgetting the compulsory mascara and lipstick, Kendal used a creamy peach coloured pencil to line and contour the eye. To contrast Krakoff's smooth, polished elegance, hair was undone with a messy, middle-parted style that appeared to be slept-in
Rodarte: If one were to imagine a gothic, galactic, femme fatale, A/W's Rodarte girl would be high on the list. With a metallic bronze lid-to-brow shadow and glitter-coated lips, lead artist James Kaliardos created a beautiful, 'ephemeral and nostalgic' look. Combining Kaliardos' fantastical make-up with long, plait-wavy hair - twisted at one side and pinned in place by Odile Gilbert - the look embodied the same playful, daring nature that is signature Rodarte
Tommy Hilfiger: Sticking to his iconic, American roots, Tommy Hilfiger created an A/W collection inspired by the nation's mountaineers. And with New York's February snow coming down thick and fast on the city, the chalet styling felt rather fitting. With thick and healthy, middle-parted hair framing the models' faces, hair stylist Eugene Souleiman used the simplicity of symmetry to create an angelically youthful appearance. Paired with luminous après ski faces, Hilfiger's girls had that enviable 'just-off-the-slopes' glow
Victoria Beckham: Understated and cool, the make-up at Victoria Beckham was barely-there perfection. Pat McGrath used nude shades of peach and burnt bark to accentuate the models' features, allowing Beckham's architectural designs to remain the shows' focus. Hair stylist Guido Palau took the same approach and drew hair back into a basic low ponytail - a clean and understated option, which complemented the collection's sophisticated simplicity
Moncler Grenoble: Fluffy white hats and Willy Wonka-style goggles stole the show at Moncler Grenoble. With such an accessories overload, there was seemingly little need for grooming: the hair and make-up in fact designed by Michelle Webb and styled by graduates of the Academy of Freelance Makeup (AOFM), without uniformity. Skin was left foundation free and hair worn in whichever way the model desired, a precious liberty that was in contrast to the physical restriction of the set that kept each girl in their own individual cubby hole
keywords:grooming trends A/W 2014, New York Fashion Week A/W 2014, hair and makeup trends
关键词:美容趋势A/W 2014,纽约时装周A/W 2014,头发和化妆趋势
 

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