the rise of the swedish fashion phenomenon is charted in a new show in stockholm
2014-05-22 13:04
Stockholm's Sven-Harry's Art Museum presents 'Swedish Fashion', a new exhibition that examines Sweden's fashion boom between 2000 and today - a scene that's far richer than the key denim brands it's primarily known for. Photography: Dan Kullberg
斯文·哈利在斯德哥尔摩的艺术博物馆正在一次新的展览中审视瑞典时装界的变化,展览从二十世纪七十年代的黎明一直延伸到现在。功能性和价格低廉的时尚是推动这一变化的两大主要力量,周一廉价的牛仔布、Acne工作室和瑞典的Tiger在其中扮演着突出的角色。
展览策展人之一、瑞典Elle的创意总监中情局·詹森(CIA Jansson)解释说,到了20世纪90年代末,当时国际设计师仍在为他们的产品贴上巨大的标识,瑞典设计师正专注于打造你可以搬进的功能性服装-这是与整个瑞典社会有关的发展。她解释说:“我们开始变得很舒服,我们的时尚选择必须适合接孩子离开托儿所,然后出去喝酒。”
这一变化是瑞典几千年来更大的创造性发展的一部分。新一代的建筑师、厨师和设计师不再与国外国家调情。他们在自家后院寻找灵感,开始为自己的市场设计。
“他们意识到他们必须倾听瑞典男性和女性的需求,”邦“(Bon)杂志联合策划人兼创始人迈克尔·埃尔门贝克(MichaelElmenbeck)说。我们想买得起时尚。我想这是我们社会主义遗产的一部分。看看H
由不同的趋势组织,不太知名的名字,如安-苏菲回来,韦雷德,达格马尔,罗德贝尔和桑德拉巴克伦德也是突出的。
在博物馆的屋顶上,也展出了新一代的设计师,包括艾达·克拉姆伯恩(Ida Klamborne)、埃里克·比尔凯舍斯(Erik Bjerkesj)和纳伊姆·约瑟夫(Nim Josefi)-然而,埃门贝克说,这种美学未来的前景仍然很难说。他们对大规模生产不感兴趣,而面料则更加排他性。在他们的iPhone和博客展示T型台时尚的陪伴下长大后,他们对瑞典语的看法发生了轻微的变化。他解释说:“人们更注重色彩和时尚细节。”“看看他们接下来会把它带到哪里,这将是非常有趣的。”
This installation features pieces from local labels including Sandra Backlund (2007), AltewaiSaome (2012), Helena Hörstedt (2008), Bea Szenfeld (2007) and V Ave Shoe Repair (2008). Photography: Dan Kullberg
Texture is put under the microscope with avant-garde pieces by Sandra Backlund (2010), Ann-Sofie Back Ateljé (2008), Bea Szenfeld (2007) and Helena Hörstedt (2008). Photography: Dan Kullberg
A ribbon confection by V Ave Shoe Repair (2009) is far from the laid-back Swedish fashion stereotype. Photography: Dan Kullberg
By the end of the 1990s, when international designers were still putting large logos on their products, Swedish designers were focusing on creating functional clothes that you could move in - a development to do with Swedish society at large, explains curator Cia Jansson. On show: designs from V Ave Shoe Repair (2008), AltevaiSaome (2013), The Local Firm (2012/2013) and J.Lindeberg (2014). Photography: Dan Kullberg
The emerging group of architects, chefs and designers no longer flirted with countries abroad. They looked at their own backyard for inspiration, and started designing for their own market. Pictured: V Ave Shoe Repair (2010). Photography: Dan Kullberg
On the rooftop of the museum, the next generation of designers are also on display. Pictured is a piece by Ida Klamborg (2014). Photography: Dan Kullberg
Naim Josefi (2014). Photography: Dan Kullberg
A look from Leonard Kocic (2014) on the museum's rooftop. Photography: Dan Kullberg
Filippa K (2009). Photography: Dan Kullberg
Accessories from Malinda Damgaard. Photography: Dan Kullberg
A 3D corset from Bea Szenfeld (2010). Photography: Dan Kullberg
keywords:Swedish Fashion exhibition
关键词:瑞典时装展
斯文·哈利在斯德哥尔摩的艺术博物馆正在一次新的展览中审视瑞典时装界的变化,展览从二十世纪七十年代的黎明一直延伸到现在。功能和廉价时尚是推动这一变化的两大主要力量。
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