Emilio Pucci was amongst those staging elaborate displays at the Florentine trade fair, turning the Baptistery of San Giovanni into a striking beacon of colour

在上个赛季的日程冲突之后，佛罗伦萨的皮蒂·伊玛金·乌莫广场(Pitti Immagine Uomo Square)与“伦敦收藏家”(The London Collection：The London Collection：Man)发生了冲突。虽然伦敦可能会因其新鲜、年轻的才能和迷人的亚文化而赢得专栏奖，但他们可能会辩称，意大利将历史与商业实力结合在一起。

相反，第86次皮蒂会议的时间正好适逢意大利费伦泽中心成立60周年。这是被称为“时尚之乡”的全城风格接管的完美借口，涉及佛罗伦萨一些最著名的场馆。

佛罗伦萨的四大巨头-塞尔瓦托·费拉格慕、古奇、埃米利奥·普奇和埃尔曼诺·塞维诺-应邀参加了活动。首先是普奇(Pucci)，它把圣乔瓦尼(San Giovanni)的浸礼会变成了一座彩色灯塔(也是该品牌的一座恰当的纪念碑，因为它喜欢快乐的过度)，它把它涂在了1957年由同名喷泉设计的“巴蒂斯特罗”(Battistero)版画中。

古琦和菲拉格慕选择了更亲密的东西。前者举办了一个小型集会，以庆祝重新开办历史悠久的凯林拥有Richard Ginori旗舰上通过D'Rundieli。该精品店还推出了三件原创瓷器作品，由1923至1930号的艺术总监Gio Ponti主持。同时，博物馆塞尔瓦托FelaGAMO推出了一个引人入胜的新展览，“平衡”，探索平衡，运动和姿态通过艺术和蜉蝣，炫耀宝石从房子的广泛鞋类档案。

当其他事件庆祝意大利时尚的美学和精神时，Ermanno Scervino却敲击了意大利产业的经济影响力。该品牌为数百名宾客举办了盛大的晚宴，出席仪式的康伊·韦斯特(Kanye West)最近以音乐家(也是前壁纸*设计奖评委)的婚礼而闻名。

在其他地方，在Teatrino Lorenese，G-Star Raw展示了它致力于清除海洋中塑料污染的承诺，它为海洋收集的第一个原料，由回收的海洋塑料制成，被改造成牛仔布。法瑞尔威廉斯(我们的另一位杰出的设计奖评委)在这个项目中加入了他自己的明星力量，在一个蓝洗的计划中策划了剧院。

鉴于参与者的突出地位，这一季的男装客人设计品牌是Z Zegna，这一品牌重新回到了佛罗伦萨。杰尼亚体育和Z杰尼亚已经合并成一个品牌，设计师默里·斯卡隆和保罗·苏里奇正在共同努力，将男装的两个基石-运动服和裁缝结合起来。他们希望吸引一位忙碌而又富有的城市购物者，苏里奇称他为“一种新型旅行者”。他说，如今我们的商务旅行和通勤都是如此的流动。“大多数人工作不到五分钟，所以他们是在旅行或骑车。”

这对夫妇对这一新的现实做出了反应，他们通常只在运动服中发现努力工作的假象。西装是在防水的Techmerino中进行热调节的，而耐穿弹力织物中的外衣则是使用热胶水建造的，没有接缝。考虑到对功能的关注，时尚几乎被置之不理。设计是低调的，干净的和最小的。

专注于杰尼亚的实用性并不能与拉佩拉男装发布会上的过分道歉相比。从女性内衣中借用的炫耀花样——和古怪的飞扬牡蛎印刷品可能看起来很古怪，但皮蒂不会是皮蒂而没有一点孔雀。

Entitled 'Monumental Pucci' the octagonal monument was dressed in the label's 'Battistero' print, designed by Emilio Pucci in 1957

The house also hosted a celebratory cocktail in honour of the presentation of archival designs, on show at Palazzo Pucci

Heritage prints were displayed alongside archival imagery

3633317424001 Watch 'Monumental Pucci' come to life

Elsewhere, Gucci hosted a small gathering to celebrate the reopening of the historic Kering-owned Richard Ginori flagship on Via de' Rondinelli

Outside the Museo Salvatore Ferragamo in Santa Trinita Square, guests admired Cecil Balmond's 'H_edge' installation comprising suspended metallic pieces

The brand's 'Equilibrium' exhibition focused on the anatomy of the foot, studied extensively by Salvatore Ferragamo

Exploring balance, movement and posture through art and ephemera, gems from the house's extensive footwear archive were put in the spotlight

Running until April 2015, the show features work by artists from Rodin, Calder and Matisse to Albrecht Dürer and Giulio Paolini. Pictured are 'Untitled' (centred), Mario Ceroli, 2002 and 'Domain LXVIII' (right), by Antony Gormley, 2009. Photography: Arrigo Coppitz

There is a focus on ballet, with archival images of Nijinsky, Isadora Duncan, Martha Graham and Trisha Brown

Ermanno Scervino hammered home the financial clout of the Italian fashion industry, throwing an opulent dinner for hundreds of guests at the majestic Forte Belvedere

A model wearing Ermanno Scervino takes in views over Florence

This season's guest menswear designer was Z Zegna, newly merged with Zegna Sport. Designers Murray Scallon and Paul Surridge married the two cornerstones of menswear: sportswear and tailoring

The pair responded with hard-working fabrications normally only found in sportswear

Outerwear in resistant stretch fabric was constructed without seams, using thermo glue

Suits came thermo-regulated in water-resistant Techmerino

Given the focus on function, fashion took a back seat. Designs were understated, clean and minimal

Meanwhile, La Perla's debut menswear presentation celebrated excess with its new loungewear category...

...along with showy fabrications borrowed from its women's lingerie legacy

keywords:menswear collections, men's fashion, luxury fashion, Pitti

关键词：男装系列，男装，豪华时装，皮蒂