retail rebellion we trace dover street markets first decade of boundary pushing design
2014-08-29 11:49
Don't be fooled by the scaffolding outside London's Dover Street Market - the destination fashion store is open for business after three days of Tachiagari reinvention, beginning a calendar of tenth anniversary celebrations
为纪念革命性零售概念多佛街市场(Dover Street Market)成立十周年,这家最初的伦敦商店本周重新开业,此前72小时的tachiagari(日文为“开始”)重新设计,开启了长达一个月的特殊项目、限量版产品和装置日历。
“Tachiagari是多佛街市场(Dover Street Market)DNA的一部分,”副总裁迪肯·鲍登(Dickon Bowden)在谈到该店标志性的创意流动模式时说,这些年来,艺术家和设计师们一直在梦想着无限的概念空间,我们所做的一切都是如此。
这个生日整容包括扩大一楼的精美珠宝空间(由英国艺术家白梓轩改建),一个扩大的屋顶玫瑰烘焙咖啡馆,全球推出的G I R L(C.E.DE-GARSAN)香水与法瑞尔·威廉姆斯合作,以及东京的好设计店。地下室居留权。
鲍登解释说:“Rei(川久保)一直受到市场内部不同人群的能量和冲突的鼓舞,最终导致了这种美好的混乱。”
从技术上讲,庆祝活动始于8月底,路易威登(Louis Vuitton)的首个DSM概念空间(该品牌历来只有通过自己的精品店和百货商店合作伙伴提供)首次推出了尼古拉斯·盖斯基尔(Nicolas Gthquière)的2014年A/W系列,收藏于一楼至10月14日。
与预期不谋而合的是,本周在店内架设了一系列“市场街多佛”(Market Street Dover)主题摊位,出售价格合理的DSM纪念品,这些纪念品要么由DSM创始人和Comme des Gar ons设计师Rei Kawubo策划,要么由设计师设计,包括Simone Rocha、里克·欧文斯(Rick Owens)和詹巴蒂斯塔·瓦利(Giambattista Valli)等设计师制作的独家产品。
尽管DSM的概念现在已经扩展到银座、东京和纽约,但最初它受到了伦敦著名的肯辛顿市场(Kensington Market)的启发。“她以前很喜欢去那里,”鲍登继续说,指的是伦敦肯辛顿大街上的三层楼高的室内市场。波西米亚飞地在20世纪90年代关门之前,通过朋克,迎合了几乎所有英国庞大的亚文化,从嬉皮士到狂欢节。
“每个人都有自己的个性,”鲍登继续说,三个独立的商场。伦敦是多佛街的原生态,也是多佛街的灵魂;银座是一家美丽、美丽的商店;纽约非常清楚地概括了混乱。事实上,最新版本跨越七层楼,位于纽约列克星敦大道的中城以东。
尽管这一里程碑在DSM的“未来十年”运动中得到了庆祝,但我们不禁回顾了几年来,时尚品牌和艺术家的一些出色合作,因为马特·莫泽(Matt Moser)、克拉克(Clark)和加里·卡德(Gary Card)这样的天才,都让他们的想象力肆无忌惮,为纯粹的商业魔术火上浇油。
卡德在谈到他与品牌的互动时说,他们给了很多自由,让他们可以按照我的意愿去实验和制作东西。“我坚信第一个本能的想法是最好的,多佛街是如此开放,他们非常容易接受奇怪的想法,但没有什么是紧张的或强迫的。”这位布景设计师最雄心勃勃的项目包括安装40个小丑头,展示40副眼镜,每副眼镜都是由100个角色制作而成的,每副眼镜都是由100个角色组成的,覆盖了所有的分支。
Moser-Clark赞同这样的观点:“作为艺术家,你很快就会知道世界会有多快,然后与DSM一起工作,我学会了更快的时尚运动。”
整件事都不是商店的经历。他工作的第一个项目是2011年被称为“傻瓜的船”的窗口。
他说:“就像你想象的那样,是一种用冰淇淋圣代装饰的拖网渔船。”他说,当时的工作与他的工作室差不多。
“你将在凌晨3点或4点做一扇窗户,人们会停下来拍照,”鲍登在他们意想不到的展示会上说,这些展示会从梅菲尔最糟糕的地址中闪现出来。“这是非常令人满意的。”
The birthday facelift includes the expansion of the ground floor's fine jewellery space with a new installation by English artist Tom Price, titled 'PP Tree'
The rooftop Rose Bakery café has also been extended
Tokyo's Good Design Shop has taken up residence in the basement
And 'Market Street Dover' themed stalls have been scattered around the store. 'Rei [Kawakubo] has always been very inspired by the energy and the clashing of different people coming together within markets, which ultimately resulted in this beautiful chaos idea,' explains vice president Dickon Bowden. Photography: Mark Blower
The stalls showcase reasonably priced DSM souvenirs that have been either curated or created by DSM founder and Comme des Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo, along with exclusive products fashioned by designers from Simone Rocha to Rick Owens and Giambattista Valli. Photography: Mark Blower
Also launching at the London store this week is Comme des Garçons and Pharrell Williams' collaborative fragrance, suitably titled 'G I R L' after the musician's latest album
The celebrations technically kicked off in late August with Louis Vuitton's first DSM concept space debuting Nicolas Ghesquière's A/W 2014 collection, housed on the first floor until 14 October
The revamp also includes new fitting rooms, designed by artist Peter Blake with Paul Stolper Gallery (left), and SC Artroom Milan (right), titled 'The Machine of Industrial Archaeology'
Similarly illustrative: the store's basement Undercover space
The first floor in situ. 'Tachiagari is part of Dover Street Market's DNA,' says Bowden on the store's signature mode of creative flux that's seen artists and set designers dream up infinite concept spaces over the years, 'It continues in everything we do.' Photography: Mark Blower
Black grids reinvent the store's second floor. Photography: Mark Blower
Sacai's anniversary space on the third floor. Photography: Mark Blower
Simone Rocha's floral tribute on the third floor
Also, on the third floor, JW Anderson's celebratory installation
Going up: this 'Egg' space has taken over the fourth floor. DSM's anniversary celebrations may take a forward-focused 'The Next Ten Years' theme, but we couldn't help also looking back at some of the stellar collaborations from fashion brands and artists that have transformed this London space over the years...
A recent anarchic gem came courtesy of Gary Card, whose 'Talking Heads' installation in May 2014 featured 21 neon polystyrene clown heads sporting Dover Street Market's sunglasses. 'They all have their own frantic personality, sometimes ecstatic, sometimes terrified, sometimes shocked,' says Card, of the work that toured each branch
Andy Hillman's window for the Diamond Jubilee in 2012
Sneaker space by artist Graham Hudson, 2012. 'There is a lot of freedom to respond, unlike a conventional design brief,' says Hudson. 'At DSM, a ladder is only a ladder if you stand on it to reach something out of reach - otherwise a ladder can be a shelf, a shoe box etc'
2012's Fendi display honoured its iconic Baguette bag
'The Ship of Fools' by Matt Moser-Clark from August 2011. 'It was as you might expect, a sort of fishing trawler decorated with ice cream sundaes,' says Moser-Clark of the work that was about the same size as his studio at the time
Christopher Nemeth by Lou Nemeth, 2011
Artek's 2500 LUX Bright Therapy Lounge in September 2011
Jake and Dinos Chapman, 2011
Keith Haring for Tommy Hilfiger, May 2010
Octopus by Le Trois Garcons, January 2009
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus 'Time for Magic' collection window art by Jamie Reid, July 2008
Lanvin dropped in for S/S 2008
In anticipation of Tim Walker's book 'Pictures', his May 2008 window display featured a whimsical scene of moons and a puppet
Chanel's 2008 in-store display showcased its Metiers d'Arts Paris-Londres collection
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus window quadrille by Michael Howells, July 2007
keywords:Dover Street Market London, Dickon Bowden, Comme des garcons, Pharrell Williams, Rei Kawakubo
关键词:伦敦多佛街市场,迪康·鲍登,加科斯公司,法瑞尔·威廉姆斯,川久保
为了纪念革命性的零售概念多佛街市场十周年,最初的伦敦商店在72小时的日本语“开始”改造后于本周重新开业,开始了长达一个月的特色菜日历.。
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