Marni founder Consuelo Castiglioni recently celebrated her label's 20th anniversary, so it made sense that she opted to do something special with her A/W 2015 menswear collection at Pitti Uomo

经过艰难的几个赛季后，Florentine男装交易展皮蒂伊姆马蒂奥莫今年一月强势回归。与繁荣的伦敦收藏品的一次日程冲突：男人们阻止了许多人出席，并且潜在地推迟了一些设计师的展示。

这个后勤上的问题已经在今年得到解决，最重要的是，皮蒂董事会推出了一段时间以来最受欢迎的名字之一-马尼(Marni)。创始人康苏洛·卡斯蒂廖尼(Consuelo Castiglioni)最近庆祝了她的品牌成立20周年，所以她选择在2015年A/W系列男装系列上做一些特别的事情是有道理的。

马尼通常会在米兰展示一些衣架上的衣服，所以在马里诺马里尼博物馆(MuseoMarinMarini)举办的一场T型台秀是一个令人兴奋的前景。场地为卡斯蒂廖尼提供了灵感之源，他成功地将传统与建筑创新并置。结果是一套充满自信的现代收藏，戏弄着过去-看那些七十年代的耀斑和欢快的复古版画。

当然，皮毛构成了收藏的关键部分，尽管卡斯蒂廖尼用它轻松地触摸，点点头，她的品牌的声誉提供了一些离奇和意想不到的东西。镀金犬穿着鲜艳、多色、彩色的羊皮-这是一种现代科技色彩的梦幻大衣-就像用山羊毛装饰的背包一样。这种嬉戏的精神延伸到裁缝-卡斯蒂廖尼，是邀请穿着和靴子皮蒂孔雀把东西混在一起，在冲突的检查显示破烂的西装。

虽然著名的意大利标签，如Marni可能感觉像皮蒂的预期选择，Shayne Oliver的纽约的标签罩空气，另一个主要客户设计师按计划，更是一个惊喜。奥利弗的街头服饰品牌，成立于2006，借鉴音乐文化，并具有强大的声誉挑战的期望围绕性别，性和阳刚之气。他深受年轻时尚爱好者的欢迎，他的HBA品牌T恤衫也产生了大量的假货。然而，空气罩正在迅速成为该机构的一部分。

去年5月，他被列入LVMH的“特别奖”奖项名单，因此皮蒂有理由延长其认可的封条，尽管他展示的装饰着地板长度的长发和捆绑式裤子的西服不太可能在佛罗伦萨的服装大队中找到一个现成的市场。尽管如此，奥利弗显然是在利用这个平台作为一次进步的机会，而不仅仅是震惊-他专注于裁剪而不是休闲装是新的，对皮蒂来说是合适的。

然后，对于那些寻找更理智的东西的人，奥利维尔·赛拉德和蒂尔达·斯温顿上演了他们的新表演-这是三人合作的最后一场演出。名为“衣帽间”的“衣帽间”，看到斯温顿邀请观众和她一起“登记”他们的外套，引发了各种半即兴的场景，似乎在我们的衣服穿着时所体现出来的情感和历史上发挥了作用。信息是皮蒂的完美。

Held at the Museo Marino Marini, the collection drew inspiration from the historical venue, successfully juxtaposing tradition with architectural innovation

The result was a confidently modern collection that playfully riffed on the past

While a celebrated Italian label like Marni may have felt like an expected choice for Pitti, Shayne Oliver's New York-based label Hood by Air - the other main guest designer on schedule - was more of a surprise

Oliver's streetwear brand, founded in 2006, draws on music culture and has a reputation for forcefully confronting expectations surrounding gender, sexuality and masculinity

In May of 2014, he was included on LVMH's 'Special Prizes' awards list, so it made sense for Pitti to extend its seal of approval, even if the suits decorated with floor-length hair extensions and bondage-style trousers he showed will unlikely find a ready market amongst Florence's sartorial brigade

Hood by Air A/W 2015

For those looking for something slightly more cerebral, Olivier Saillard and Tilda Swinton staged their new performance - the final in a trio of collaborations. Photography: Giovanni Giannoni

Entitled 'Cloakroom', it saw Swinton invite the audience to 'check in' their coats with her, sparking a variety of semi-improvised sequences that seemed to play on the emotion and history our clothes become embodied with as wear them. Photography: Giovanni Giannoni

They seemed to play on the emotion and history our clothes become embodied with as wear them. Photography: Giovanni Giannoni

From old clothes to new accessories; over at the fair itself, Byron and Dexter Peart of Want Les Essentiels, showed off their recent foray into footwear design

keywords:Pitti, Olivier Saillard, Consuelo Castiglioni, Marni, Hood by Air, Cloakroom

关键词：Pitti，Olivier Saillard，Consuelo Castiglioni，Marni，Hood by Air，衣帽间