This season's Pitti Uomo calendar rivalled that of any fashion capital, including guest women's wear designer Thomas Tait's Boboli gardens installation

每年1月和6月在佛罗伦萨举行的皮蒂·乌莫贸易展(PittiUMO贸易展)给或采取炫耀的、口袋方形的丹迪斯(PittiUMO)的游行，这是一系列值得注意的文化活动的主办者——上周的版本再次证明了斯普林斯的乐观情绪(及其托斯卡尼日落)在其最迷人的灯光下绘制了Pitti。
在邀请的客人参展商和意大利电力公司争论不休之际，本季的日历与任何时装公司都争论不休——对那些策划了地理规划的人来说，库迪斯（kudos）也是如此，他们的目的和美学在远离疯狂的扇形人群的时候才有了无缝的转变。

托马斯·泰特(Thomas Tait)就是其中之一，他选择实现自己作为客座女装设计师的地位，而不是像以往受邀者那样，在波波利花园举办一场有趣的展览，将他伦敦时装秀上的七件档案作品与意大利最好的工厂里的全新定制作品并列起来。塔伊特把每一个都放在一个由工艺工作室的Mehrnoosh Khadivi反射出来的小隔间里，这促使一个人放慢脚步，通过一位年轻设计师的眼睛来审视工艺的演变。

Nino Cerruti当然不是一个年轻的设计师，但他也在回顾(尽管是一个更大的，跨越十年的作品)，观看由Angelo Flaccavento策划的展览“Il Signor Nino”，并在著名的Marini博物馆内举办。Cerruti的作品对现代男装的影响是毋庸置疑的，当穿插在Marini的雕塑和绘画中，在霓虹灯脚手架内创造出朴实的质感和色彩时，这种影响变得尤为明显。

MSGM设计师马西莫·乔尔盖蒂(Massimo Giorgetti)的埃米利奥·普奇(Emilio Pucci)的首次亮相就有点不那么虔诚了。这是一个他称之为“先导史诗”的度假胜地和男装，他在佛罗伦萨一所艺术学校里展示了由米兰建筑师梅西米西米亚诺·洛卡泰利(Massiiano乔尔盖蒂把前任彼得·邓达斯(Peter Dundas)的工作翻到了头上，他选择了一种日装重点，把普奇(Pucci)围巾上的指纹扭曲成不对称的衬衫、孩子气的西服和轻浮的换档连衣裙(布满羽毛腰带

萨维尔街(Savile Row)裁缝基尔古尔(Kilgour)也发表了一份强有力的设计声明。他的创意总监卡洛·布兰德利(Carlo Brandelli)在梅第奇宫(Palazzo Medici)内提出了一个名为“反思性3”的迷宫平台，这座建筑是用镜子和彩色玻璃板建造的，以层次分明的色彩折射阳光；布兰德利说，“从春天的第一次嫩枝到八月的粉红色日落，阳光折射出来。”他的调色板部分地反映在与他那气势恢宏的现代作品并排挂在一起的柔和色调中，周围是一个阳光明媚的古典庭院。

庆祝活动结束后，杰里米·斯科特(JeremyScott)在科西尼宫(Palazzo Corsini)铺上了“人造壁画”的里诺地板(以配合真正的天花板)，这是他自去年接管这座房子以来首次在意大利举行的莫斯奇诺男装表演。史考特从不回避场面，他用一堆从运动型、摩托十字条纹到威尼斯蒙面球的华丽金色褶皱-戴着粉状假发、红唇模特-让人想起了一个完全不同时代的孔雀男性。

Tait juxtaposed seven archive pieces from his London runway shows with brand new iterations custom-made in the best Italian factories

Nino Cerruti is certainly no young designer, but here he was looking back on his decade-spanning oeuvre for the exhibition 'Il Signor Nino' curated by Angelo Flaccavento and held inside the remarkable Museo Marino Marini

The influence that Cerruti's work has had on modern menswear is undoubted, becoming strikingly evident when interspersed amongst Marini's sculptures and drawings, creating quite moments of earthy texture and colour framed within neon scaffolding

MSGM designer Massimo Giorgetti made his Emilio Pucci debut at Pitti - a resort and men's collection he called 'The Pilot Episode' that he showed in presentation format framed by a fluorescent light install by Milanese architect Massimiliano Locatelli in the grounds of a Florentine art school. Photography: Vanni Bassetti

Turning the work of his predecessor Peter Dundas on its head, Giorgetti opted for a daywear focus by twisting Pucci scarf prints into asymmetric shirting, boyish suits, and flirty shift dresses for the girls. Photography: Vanni Bassetti

Another strong design statement came from Kilgour creative director Carlo Brandelli who proposed a labyrinthine platform named 'Reflective 3' inside the Palazzo Medici. Photography: Ben Dunbar Brunton

Upping the saturation point Jeremy Scott plastered the Palazzo Corsini with 'faux-fresco' lino floors (to match the genuine ceilings), for his first Moschino men's show back in Italy since he took over the house last year

Never one to shy away from spectacle, Scott ran riot with a mash-up of references from a sporty, motocross streak to the lavish golden ruffles of a Venetian masked ball replete with powder-wigged, red-lipped models - reminiscent of peacocking males of an entirely different era

New Iceberg womenswear designer Arthur Arbesser also staged a runway presentation for his eponymous line with gender bending prints in easy sportwear shapes

The Austrian designer once again collaborated with architect Luca Cipelletti on his set design. The runway was littered with classic Memphis pieces by Ettore Sottsass

Ports 1961 designer Milan Vukmirovic's cocktail hour show was a delightfully casual, open air affair within Florence's Piazza d’Ognissanti

Vukmirovic may have chosen to show in one of the Firenze's most famous squares, but there was a Califronian ease to the designs on his sportif cobblestone runway

In celebration of CP Company's 40th anniversary the Made in Italy brand put its Google jacket, a CP star since 1988, under the spotlight with an exhibition/party in its honour

Heritage accessories brand Ghurka also celebrated its 40th birthday with an intimate inner hosted by Waris Ahluwalia at Harry's Bar

Renowned for his stellar presentations, accessory designer Louis Leeman once again delivered with his 'The Bohemian Safari' set space, housed within Palazzo Pandolfini, a historic Florentine mansion

Geometric shapes and animal skins took pride of place for S/S 2016

keywords:Pitti Uomo, Kilgour, Moschino, CP Company, Emilio Pucci, Arthur Arbesser, Thomas Tait, Louis Leeman

关键词：Pitti Uomo，Kilgour，Moschino，CP Company，Emilio Pucci，Arthur Arbesser，Thomas Tait，Louis Leeman