Italian cobbler Francesco Russo walks us through his made-to-order, luxury shoe service, launching in partnership with Harvey Nichols. Pictured: styles from his bespoke collection

在成功的鞋子设计成为一个房子的标志或被快速和愤怒的鞋子名声冲走之间有着如此微妙的界线。意大利鞋匠FrancescoRusso知道这两个故事。

这位出生于普利亚的创意公司于2013年创立了自己同名的奢侈鞋品牌。他在米兰的Costume National和Miu Miu磨练了自己的工艺，然后搬到巴黎伊夫·圣罗兰(Yves St Laurent)，在斯蒂法诺·皮拉蒂(Stefano Pilati)任职期间，他在那里创作了臭名昭著的凉鞋和笼靴，之后加入塞尔吉奥·罗西(

对于他自己的作品，罗素的性感签名是关于他的高跟鞋和凉鞋的细长部分-他把鞋子和腿的曲线连接起来的方式-从后面创造了一个引人注目的轮廓。他的另一个统一特征是他给他的皮革上蜡，从虎蛇到鳄鱼和蜥蜴，他喜欢用橄榄色、柔和的钴、锈和芥末等细微的淡色。他说，如果你看到这双鞋，它们会有点发亮。他当天访问了伦敦。“这就像他们在男鞋上做的那样：我不认为这是老式的，但有细微差别，这是因为我们是用手做的。”

鲁索的所有鞋子都是在他在意大利的工作室里做的，包括他从他的巴黎工作室/瓦洛伊斯街的商店里拿来的定制佣金。现在，鲁索和哈维·尼科尔斯在伦敦推出了这种为期6周的订单订购服务。他说：“我认为，无论是皮革还是鳄鱼，只要品牌在世界各地移动，我们就会带着工作室的理念，这意味着提供我们在巴黎能够提供的服务，这一点很重要。”

“这是一种有功能的艺术，”他在谈到自己的手艺时补充道，“它的作用是让人们做梦，因为时尚就是做一些不重要的事情，而不是做对人至关重要的事情。”食物是，水是，鞋子不是关键，所以人们买鞋的唯一原因是他们对他们有这种感情。为客户提供定制服务，让客户能够触摸并感受到他的豪华部件，这是培育这种观念的下一步。

The Pulia-born creative established his own eponymous brand in 2013. Russo’s sensual signature pertains to the elongated heel-piece of his pumps and sandals

Russo honed his craft at Costume National and Miu Miu in Milan before moving to Paris to join Yves Saint Laurent (during Stefano Pilati’s tenure), and later Sergio Rossi as creative director

His shoe's other unifying characteristic is the subtle waxing he gives his leathers, which range from tiger snake to crocodile and lizard that he favours in subtle off-shades of olive, muted cobalt, rust and mustard. Pictured: S/S 2016 collection

On his craft, Russo explains: ‘It’s art with a function, and that function is to make people dream because fashion is about doing things that are not crucial, we are not doing things that are fundamental for people.' Pictured: S/S 2016 collection

Offering a bespoke service where clients can touch and feel his luxurious components is naturally the next step to nurture Russo's fashion ethos. Pictured: Francesco Russo

The Paris store, pictured, is where the idea for this global bespoke service was born

Russo adds, ‘I think it’s important that whenever the brand moves around the world we carry the atelier philosophy with us and this means giving the service we are able to give in Paris'

keywords:Shoes, London design

关键词：伦敦鞋设计