fluid feat selfridges unveils its transformative contemporary designer studio
2016-07-27 09:49
The latest launch in Selfridges' £300 million regeneration project is its third-floor Designer Studio overseen by Campaign and monikered the ‘Theatre of Forces’
随着街头服装和设计师时尚之间的界限在跑道上继续变得模糊,Selfridges的最新概念空间解决了一个消费者谁想购买他们的狂热的Vetements轰炸机和一个原始的冠军。
这家百货公司新的三楼设计师工作室(Selfridges‘s3亿英镑的再生项目最新推出)是一个流畅的空间,它效仿了多佛街市场(Dover Street Market)等零售业破坏者的脚步,让设计师们能够充分利用自己的设计,这些设计本身被认为是变革性的,能够适应时尚狂热的节奏。
购买总监塞巴斯蒂安·曼尼斯(Sebastian Manes)解释说,随着新设计师工作室的概念,我们已经考虑了时尚的灵活未来。“从重新思考和意料之外的品牌邻接,到由创造焦点的建筑装置构成的完全流畅的零售配置,再到我们正在接近成衣的方式中性别定义的分解-这是我们购买、呈现和思考时尚的方式上的一种进步。”
Selfridges公司招募了一个名为“部队剧院”的17,200平方英尺的展览馆,该展厅将于10月完工。最小的、类似阁楼的空间被新曝光的柱子、生砖块和混凝土效果的瓷砖所占据,而自然光则是通过打开俯瞰牛津街的巨大画窗来回收的。自定义制作的展示箱已经创建使用回收塑料展示针织品,配件和艺术编辑的克莱尔德鲁昂系列。
然而,正如Manes解释的那样,真正的反思明显体现在工作室意想不到的品牌邻接(想想克雷格·格林(Craig Green)、3.1菲利普·林(Phillip Lim),以及由创意合作者安娜·洛马克斯(Anna Lomax)、范特尼蒂(Patternity)和加里·卡德(Gary Card)在内的创意合作者构思的一系列建筑“愚蠢”,这些
卡的坠机陨石安装目前有一个肯佐特许权,而其他商店,包括jw安德森,约瑟夫,克里斯托弗凯恩和Vetements。后者与艺术总监帕特里克·沃(Patrick Waugh)合作制作了一幅仍在进行中的拼贴作品,而前排则是从塞尔福里奇(Selfridges)的房子后面打捞出符合该品牌务实精神的活动架。在另一个角落,Artisan已经创建了一个光学装置,目前专门用于流行文化筛Moschino。
但是除了这些标题之外,工作室的编辑还包括了丰富的新面孔(注意到Aalto,Le Kilt和新柏林针织品品牌Plys)。事实上,在该部门的67个品牌中,有29个是新品牌,其中许多都是在其中性T恤店(unisex t恤shop)中出现的,该店是与亚洲零售商I.T.合作策划的。这个“Follie”是由模式专家Patternity设计的,它有一个融合的阴阳概念,可以容纳150多件T恤和运动衫设计。
这种年轻的精神已经延伸到工作室的更衣室,在那里,带有空中景观的窗帘提供漂亮的“自拍”背景-当然,每个房间都有自拍棒。工作室的配乐也是由设计师定制的,而音量的辛烷值明显高于商店的其他部分,增加了它的活力。
就像它的位置一样无敌。围绕着商店的牛仔布,当代和新的车身工作室部门,设计师工作室同样可以通过一个从二楼东廊——CeeLand and Ce DES GAROSANS弹出的自动扶梯进入——增强Selfridges时尚思维的进步方式。消费者目前正在购物。
‘With the concept for the new Designer Studio, we have considered the flexible future of fashion,’ explains buying director, Sebastian Manes. Pictured: a meteorite installation designed by Gary Card
The result is a fluid space that follows in the footsteps of retail disruptors like Dover Street Market by allowing its designers to weight in on their fit-outs. Pictured: an optical installation by Artisan that’s currently dedicated to pop culture sieve Moschino
Custom made display cases have been created using recycled plastics to showcase knitwear, accessories and an arty edit of Claire de Rouen tomes
Vetements have worked with art director Patrick Waugh on a collaged backdrop, while the movable racks have been salvaged from Selfridges’ back of house in line with the pragmatic spirit of the brand
The minimal, loft-like space is dominated by newly exposed columns, raw brickwork and concrete-effect tiling, while natural light has been reclaimed by opening up huge picture windows that overlook Oxford Street
A unisex T Shirt Shop has been curated in collaboration with Asian retailer i.t. This ‘follie’ has been designed by pattern specialist Patternity working with a converging monochromatic yin and yang concept, and housing over 150 tee and sweatshirt designs
Manes adds, 'From rethought and unexpected brand adjacencies to a completely fluid retail configuration framed by architectural installations that create focus, through to the breakdown of gender-definition in the way we are approaching ready-to-wear – this is a progressive move forward in the way we buy, present and think about fashion'
The youthful spirit has been extended to the Studio’s change rooms where curtains featuring aerial landscapes provide jazzy ‘selfie’ backdrops – selfie sticks are also on hand in each room
Surrounded by the store's Denim, Contemporary and new Body Studio departments, the Designer Studio is also accessible via an escalator that pops up from the East Gallery downstairs, reinforcing the progressive way that Selfridges’ fashion-savvy consumer is currently shopping
keywords:Selfridges, Retail Directory
随着街头服饰与设计师时尚之间的界限继续在跑道上模糊,Selfridges的最新概念空间解决了一个消费者,他们想购买他们的邪教发行品炸弹轰炸机旁边的一个原始的冠军T恤。
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