Pitti Uomo guest designer JW Anderson showed his S/S 2018 collection at the spectacular Villa La Pietra. Photography: Daisy Walker

就像佛罗伦萨不断飙升的气温一样，皮蒂·乌莫(Pitti Uomo)展销会每两年举办一次，目前已进入第92版，本周全球表现出色，伦敦设计师JW Anderson、德国品牌雨果·博斯(Hugo Boss)和维吉尔·阿博(Virgil Abloh)的纽约非白色品牌轮流推出。Abloh的节目标志着与詹妮·霍尔泽的合作，她最近为我们的7月刊(W*220)制作了限量版封面。

客人们还在市中心观看了克里斯蒂安·卢布廷(Christian Louboutin)举办的自行车马球锦标赛(Bike Polo)，甚至还偷偷观看了“短暂的时装博物馆”(The Current Museum of时尚)的预演。这个展览在皮蒂宫的加里里亚德尔服装的空间里举行，由奥利维尔·赛拉德主持，展出了19世纪至今的近200件作品，由包括“价值屋”和“古奇屋”在内的设计师设计。

Hugo的作品吸引了艺术家作为局外人的概念的灵感

为了配合雨果·博斯的嘉宾身份，雨果男装设计高级主管巴特·德·巴克(Bart De Backer)和雨果女性高级创意总监珍妮·斯万克·克拉斯特瓦(Jenny Swank Krasteva)探讨了这位艺术家作为该品牌S/S 2018系列的局外人的地位。当晚的展览坐落在一家废弃的大型雪茄工厂里，展出了一条长长的混凝土T台，上面喷满了涂鸦，并点亮了数百支悬挂的蜡烛。这片空间用画笔和素描装饰得恰到好处，而这套藏品-巧妙的原始边缘和松散的花纹图案、整体轮廓和宽松的外套-转向了由中性色调和明亮的黄色、雨果红和蓝色组成的艺术调色板。

雨果的设计师解释说：“我们在设计这个系列的时候，发现了很多巴斯基特穿着名牌的照片。”“他穿着它们的方式非常不传统，不值钱。这位艺术家在自己的泡泡中徘徊，创造出自己的时尚美学，这是他的出发点。这种个人风格的感觉达到了与比例的戏剧-对男性，涂鸦打印袋被吹到XL大小和妇女，刺绣细节有DIY边缘。这套服装本身就像伦敦设计师查尔斯·杰弗里·洛维(Charles Jeffrey Loverboy)的画布，他的指纹出现在网眼T恤衫和手绘风琴连衣裙上。“他独特的风格和强烈的视野非常符合雨果的想法和DNA，”德巴克和克拉斯捷娃解释道。

从一个正在出现的伦敦标签到它的日程上一个著名的名字，JW Anderson在佛罗伦萨郊外山丘上的一座文艺复兴别墅的花园里展示了他的皮蒂处女作。客人们走过它的花园，里面满是柠檬树、土豆杉和几何图形的花坛，然后依偎在垫子上的地板上。在傍晚的阳光下，身后矗立着巨大的具象雕塑，上面覆盖着灰尘，在T型台上站着由Loewe工艺奖决赛得主安妮·洛(Anne Low)制作的七件布料雕塑(乔纳森·安德森(Jonathan Anderson)也是这家西班牙奢侈品公司的创意总监)。

JW Anderson的S/S 2018系列展示了一个新的碎片，在别墅拉皮特拉花园首次亮相。摄影：黛西·沃克

一个宏伟的位置是的，但收藏标志着设计师的美学更削旧的版本，磨练米色CHINO短裤，卷起牛仔裤，针织毛线衫，布雷顿条纹跳线，并与匡威合作。印刷品在可口可乐商标上绽放，并在五彩的面板中出现了爱的心。乔林作为SunSPEL的创意总监的三年任期标志着他在更具颠覆性和商业化设计之间的可塑性。他在PITTI的客人身份不仅仅是一个展示城市的举动，而是一个新客户的转移。

一件用玻璃纸包裹的橙色T恤作为请柬参加了“离白”的S/S 2018秀。它不仅突出了设计师维吉尔·阿博(Virgil Abloh)与詹妮·霍尔泽(Jenny Holzer)的合作，还展示了确保生命的印刷说明-这暗示了节目的政治内涵，尤其是叙利亚难民危机。在皮蒂宫(Palazzo Pitti)巨大的前院外举行的长达一个半小时的夜景中，霍尔泽将巨大的滚动文本投射到这座巨大的文艺复兴建筑的墙壁上，这些文字取自记载战争和冲突的文字。感人的摘录摘自奥米德·沙姆斯(Omid Shams)、盖亚特·阿尔马霍恩(Ghayath Almadhoun)的文本，以及当前有关叙利亚和巴勒斯坦冲突的声音。如今，他们生活在欧盟和美国。滚动文本中还包括波兰诗人安娜·韦尔斯奇·斯斯卡(AnnaŚWirszczyńska)的30首诗句，他是1944年华沙起义期间的

在皮蒂宫与艺术家詹妮·霍尔泽合作举办了一场动人的户外表演。

在这个系列中，公用事业公司会穿一些参考用品，比如鲜艳的橙色蕾丝靴、怪异的连帽衫和宽领头巾，这与救生员的制服和核辐射中的天启防护装备都很相似。特大号塑料肩袋，平底和灼热的橙色，类似微型救生艇，而河豚夹克镀金和纸制尼龙夹克上的救生衣，暗示在品牌的展示邀请。这些衣服在华丽的背景下被聚光灯照亮，鲜明地提醒人们世界当前的政治气候，与昔日宏伟的建筑形成鲜明对比。

Christian Louboutin: The accessories designer staged a Bike Polo Tournament in the centre of Florence, it’s male contenders clad in new Louboutin footwear designs, including a ‘Love’ logo men’s slipper, a deep red leather derby shoe and panelled high-top Aurelien sneaker

Hugo Boss: The brand combined its men’s and women's offering for S/S 2018 with a show in a vast disused factory

Rossignol: Grenoble-based brand Rossignol celebrated the innovative prints and heritage logos in its roster. Its rooster logo featured in maxi size or a tiled micro pattern, while its performance outerwear and knitwear was imagined in the label’s primary colours – blue, red and white. These hues were fused with urban inspired tones, like khaki, grey and black

Parajumpers: The luxury outerwear brand offered eight new capsule collections – we’ve got our eyes on the Kegen line. Featuring a collaboration with longtime guest designer Yoshinori Ono, the capsule collection fused urban and tech-inspired details, breathability enhancing design, a concealed hoods and laser-cut perforated finishes

Brunello Cucinelli: Desert hues and sun-ripened plains inspired Brunello Cucinelli’s S/S 2018 collection, one comprising sporty silhouettes and formal lines. Its earthy inspiration is embodied in natural and stone washed fabrics, while jackets tailored close to the body and pleated trousers feature oversized pockets

Tommy Hilfiger: The American label looked into its own archive, reimagining quintessential classics for today. Preppy varsity jumpers came with horizontal striped sleeves in patches of reds and blues, and button up sporting sweaters featured asymmetric block colours and regimental stripes. Sneakers were finished with chunky colourful soles, and bought a modern flair to the label’s archival elements

Off-White: A moving show alluded to the Syrian refugee crisis, featuring a collaboration with artist Jenny Holzer

PS by Paul Smith: Sir Paul Smith frequents Japan multiple times a year and this season the designer harked back to its 1970s counter culture. The collection nodded to surfing, musical sub-cultures and the Japanese interpretation of American military clothing. They also boast the brand’s new octopus mascot, whose tentacles spread over brightly coloured shirts, shorts and sweaters

Z Zegna: The brand set sail for summer, as sea-ready models came clad in performance-focused pieces, inspired by vintage regattas. Equipping the Zegna man for the work desk or the deck, the collection blended active wear with contemporary tailoring. Double-breasted suits were layered against waterproof Techmerino hooded sweaters and rubberized leather boots, while overcoats paired with knitted sailor hats. All aboard!

Herno Laminar Bike: A six-piece, all-black capsule collection paid tribute to the world of biking, including a trio of jackets, a parka, a raincoat and a vest. In tune with Herno’s performance-focused aesthetic, the styles are breathable and windproof, created using ultrasound stitches and thermotaped details

Colmar Originals: Urban cityscapes inspired Colmar Originals’ S/S 2018 collection, which featured a range of high-performance fabrics, from shiny nylon-insert Japanese denim to water repellent two-way stretch fabrics. The collection also nodded to the 90s, featuring nylon jackets, sweatshirts and t-shirts with exaggeration logos and proportions

Tiger of Sweden: Coming into bloom, the label looked to Swedish springtime for inspiration. Hues in the collection nodded to rolling meadows, budding flowers and open air swimming baths. Tailored silhouettes were defined by loose fitting trousers, narrow waist and double breasted silhouettes. Alongside the springtime tones, classic menswear patterns including checks, houndstooth and banker-stripes were stepped up for spring

Bally: Putting its best foot forward for its Pitti Uomo debut, Swiss luxury house Bally launched its S/S 2018 retro sneaker collection in Florence. Looking back at the house’s most loved trainer styles from the last four decades, the collection includes lace ups, high-tops and tennis shoes. We’re keen to make strides in its Galaxy runner, a 1988 reissue, crafted in canvas with supple suede detail

keywords:Hugo Boss, Paul Smith, Christian Louboutin, JW Anderson, Bally, Tommy Hilfiger, Brunello Cucinelli

关键词：Hugo Boss，Paul Smith，Christian Louboutin，JW Anderson，Bally，Tommy Hilfiger，Brunello Cucinelli