sex fashion and disco 1970s new film david crump 2018
2018-03-26 13:50
Left, campaign for Hudson Stocking, Germany, late 1960s. Right, Antonio’s hybrid of 1920s fashion with a 1970s attitude revolutionised by the fashion industry. © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012. From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission
20世纪70年代,纽约反对政治、战争和种族关系日益强化的全国性挂毯,以艺术和性的放纵叛变。一部暴躁的新片让人们看到了这个时代风格的关键仲裁者:极具诱惑力的时尚插画家安东尼奥·洛佩兹,他的搭档胡安·拉莫斯,以及后来在巴黎的卡尔·拉格菲尔德。
Antonio Lopez 1970:性时尚
这部长篇纪录片记录了一个时刻,金发碧眼的人-同性恋、俱乐部生活和模糊的性别界限-在兴奋的推动下,走出俱乐部,走上了T台。这是由唐娜·萨默,凯奇和暴风雨,马文·盖伊和柯蒂斯·梅菲尔德的怀旧节拍所驱动的。
导演詹姆斯·克伦普(JamesCrump)解释说:“当我还是印第安纳州农村的青少年时,我就通过采访杂志对安东尼奥·洛佩兹和胡安·拉莫斯着迷了。”“他们神奇的生活和环境让我无法自拔,让我幻想上世纪70年代初在纽约和巴黎-这段时间我还太年轻,无法体验。”
1997年,CRUMP会见了PaulCaranicas、Lopez's和Ramos的继承人,因为他给了他无限的机会访问了数千张图纸、照片和8mm和16mm的镜头。
这部电影从未看过镜头、采访和想象,这部电影为洛佩兹和拉莫斯1969年到巴黎----在激进的社会和文化变革之中----的转变历程记录了一次变革性的旅程。
克洛伊,表面上是来看时装店最新收藏的克洛伊,他们很快成为了一个年轻的拉拉格菲尔德的朋友,形成了一个不可能的、持久的友谊。
卡尔·拉格菲尔德,巴黎,1970年。摄影:Antonio Lopez.C.Antonio Lopez和Juan Ramos的产业,2012年
这是摇滚明星时装设计师时代的曙光。
今天,七十年代,在艾滋病的黑云轰轰烈烈地翻来覆去之前,七十年代常被看作是终极的、创造性的自由、颓废和性滥交的日子。
即使在洛佩兹成名后的半个世纪里,我们已经学到了这么多东西,但今天的档案画面同样具有现实意义和先见之明。克鲁普说:“就像安东尼奥为时尚注入的种族、族裔和性元素-一位出生在波多黎各、布朗克斯长大的双性恋-在拉丁裔、非裔美国人和LGBTQ的权利和问题仍然受到争议、在主导媒体和文化中代表不足的时刻,这部电影需要制作。”安东尼奥设想了未来会是什么样子。他是一个值得铭记的自由和可达性的理想标志,特别是在目前的选举后的弊病中。
Jane Forth and Antonio Lopez, Carnegie Hall studios, New York, 1970. Photography: Juan Ramos. © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012. From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission
Left, Japanese magazine (Patti D’Arbanville), early 1970s. Right, Japanese magazine, early 1970s. © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012. From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission
Left, Tina Chow, 1971. Photography: Antonio Lopez. Right, Antonio Lopez, Paris, 1970. © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012. From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission
Juan Ramos at the Carnegie Hall studio, New York City, 1969. © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012. From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission
Left, Loulou de la Falaise, Paris, 1977. Right, Juan Ramos and Karl Lagerfeld, Saint-Tropez, 1973. Photography: Antonio Lopez. © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012. From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission
Karl Lagerfeld, Saint-Tropez, 1970. Photography: Juan Ramos. © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012. From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission
Corey Tippin, Donna Jordan and Antonio Lopez, Saint-Tropez, 1973. Photography: Juan Ramos. © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012. From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission
Antonio Lopez, Corey Tippin and Donna Jordan, Saint-Tropez, 1970. Photography: Juan Ramos. © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012. From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission
Artwork for Brigitte Bardot Interview magazine cover, April 1975. © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012. From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission
keywords:Film, Illustration, American design, Karl Lagerfeld, Sex
关键词:电影,插图,美国设计,卡尔拉格菲尔德,性
20世纪70年代,纽约反对政治、战争和种族关系日益强化的全国性挂毯,以艺术和性的放纵叛变。一部喧闹的新片照亮了一个模糊的聚光灯的时代的关键裁判的风格:疯狂诱人的法希.
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